Image analysis techniques are used for retrieving water surface elevation fields spatially and temporally from CCD-images and CCD-image-sequences. The technique proposed herein utilizes binocular ...stereogrammetry to recover topographic information from a sequence of synchronous, overlapping video images. The method used differs from the traditional stereo-photogrammetric analysis of a single stereo-pair because the use of video allows for a continuous sequence of stereo-images to be digitally sampled and analyzed. For data acquisition two synchronized progressive-scan cameras were used.
A partially supervised 3-D stereo system (called WASS, Wave Acquisition Stereo System) is shown here. It is used to reconstruct the 3-D shape of water surface waves, acquired at frame rate, with small computational time needed. The stereo method is presented, including the derivation of a relationship relating the geometry of the stereo rig and the expected errors. Finally, the 3-D calculated scattered points give the complete spatio-temporal distribution of the water surface elevations. The measurable length-scales depend on the pixel resolution, the triangulation accuracy, and the acquisition frame rate. Limitations in the stereo measurements are also discussed.
Two experiments to test and to demonstrate the system took place: one on the Venice lagoon, north of the city of Venice in September 2004 and the second on the coast of California at San Diego in December 2005. For the second experiment, qualitative and quantitative intercomparisons of the stereo-matching and in-situ sensor measurements are presented. All the measurements of water surface waves indicate that the proposed approach is both accurate and applicable for measuring water surface waves. Moreover, shape estimates are accurately and extremely dense both in space and time, and the remote location of the instruments alleviates some difficulties associated with in situ instrumentation.
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GEOZS, IJS, IMTLJ, KILJ, KISLJ, NUK, OILJ, PNG, SAZU, SBCE, SBJE, UL, UM, UPCLJ, UPUK
2.
OCEAN WAVE PHYSICS AND MODELING Cavaleri, Luigi; Barbariol, Francesco; Benetazzo, Alvise ...
Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society,
12/2019, Volume:
100, Issue:
12
Journal Article
Peer reviewed
Open access
When: 12-16 May 2019 Where: Jozankei, Hokkaido, Japan Within the present abundance of ocean wave physics and modeling meetings, Waves in Sea Environment (WISE) still keeps the original from the Wave ...Model (WAM) meetings purpose of a collective and open discussion of where the wave community is and wants to go. The reason, as we will see in the Modeling section, is its fundamental role in coupling the ocean surface with the lower atmosphere (spray, bubbles, strongly increased contact surface between the two media, bursts of momentum from air to sea and from waves to current, 30% increased drift with respect to the pure Stokes model). In particular, the presence of active surface agents (an almost monomolecular layer of fish oil) has allowed for the first time the visualization of the effects of the pure frictional turbulent wind stress. Very accurate estimates of 3D wavenumber-frequency spectra and much-improved statistics of the sea surface have been derived, including extremes and freak waves and their impacts on offshore structures, all this also in extreme conditions where the use of buoys could be problematic.
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BFBNIB, DOBA, IZUM, KILJ, NUK, PILJ, PNG, SAZU, SIK, UILJ, UKNU, UL, UM, UPUK
Abstract
In this paper, an observational space–time ensemble of sea surface elevations is investigated in search of the highest waves of the sea state. Wave data were gathered by means of a stereo ...camera system, which was installed on top of a fixed oceanographic platform located in the Adriatic Sea (Italy). Waves were measured during a mature sea state with an average wind speed of 11 m s
−1
. By examining the space–time ensemble, the 3D wave groups have been isolated while evolving in the 2D space and grabbed “when and where” they have been close to the apex of their development, thus exhibiting large surface displacements. The authors have selected the groups displaying maximal crest height exceeding the threshold adopted to define rogue waves in a time record, that is, 1.25 times the significant wave height (
H
s
). The records at the spatial positions where such large crests occurred have been analyzed to derive the empirical distributions of crest and wave heights, which have been compared against standard statistical linear and nonlinear models. Here, the maximal observed wave crests have resulted to be outliers of the standard statistics, behaving as isolated members of the sample, apparently uncorrelated with other waves of the record. However, this study has found that these unexpectedly large wave crests are better approximated by a space–time model for extreme crest heights. The space–time model performance has been improved, deriving a second-order approximation of the linear model, which has provided a fair agreement with the empirical maxima. The present investigation suggests that very large waves may be more numerous than generally expected.
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DOBA, IZUM, KILJ, NUK, PILJ, PNG, SAZU, SIK, UILJ, UKNU, UL, UM, UPUK
In many physical systems such as ocean waves, nonlinear optics, plasma physics etc., extreme events and rare fluctuations of a wave field have been widely observed and discussed. In the field of ...oceanography and naval architecture, their understanding is fundamental for a correct design of platforms and ships, and for performing safe operations at sea. Here, we report a measurement of an impressive and unique wave packet recorded in the Bay of Biscay in the North-East of the Atlantic Ocean. An analysis of the spatial extension of the packet that includes three large waves reveals that it extents for more than 1 km, with individual crests moving faster than 100 km/h. The central and largest wave in the packet was 27.8 m high in a sea with significant wave height of 11 m. A detailed analysis of the data using the nonlinear Fourier analysis reveals that the wave packet is characterized by a non trivial nonlinear content. This observation opens a new paradigm which requires new understanding of the dynamics of ocean waves and, more in general, of nonlinear and dispersive waves.
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IZUM, KILJ, NUK, PILJ, PNG, SAZU, UL, UM, UPUK
Wind–Wave Modeling: Where We Are, Where to Go Cavaleri, Luigi; Barbariol, Francesco; Benetazzo, Alvise
Journal of marine science and engineering,
04/2020, Volume:
8, Issue:
4
Journal Article
Peer reviewed
Open access
We perform a critical analysis of the present approach in wave modeling and of the related results. While acknowledging the good quality of the best present forecasts, we point out the limitations ...that appear when we focus on the corresponding spectra. Apart from the meteorological input, these are traced back to the spectral approach at the base of the present operational models, and the consequent approximations involved in properly modeling the various physical processes at work. Future alternatives are discussed. We then focus our attention on how, given the situation, to deal today with the estimate of the maximum wave heights, both in the long term and for a specific situation. For this, and within the above limits, a more precise evaluation of the wave spectrum is shown to be a mandatory condition.
We consider the observation and analysis of oceanic rogue waves collected within spatio-temporal (ST) records of 3D wave fields. This class of records, allowing a sea surface region to be retrieved, ...is appropriate for the observation of rogue waves, which come up as a random phenomenon that can occur at any time and location of the sea surface. To verify this aspect, we used three stereo wave imaging systems to gather ST records of the sea surface elevation, which were collected in different sea conditions. The wave with the ST maximum elevation (happening to be larger than the rogue threshold 1.25H
) was then isolated within each record, along with its temporal profile. The rogue waves show similar profiles, in agreement with the theory of extreme wave groups. We analyze the rogue wave probability of occurrence, also in the context of ST extreme value distributions, and we conclude that rogue waves are more likely than previously reported; the key point is coming across them, in space as well as in time. The dependence of the rogue wave profile and likelihood on the sea state conditions is also investigated. Results may prove useful in predicting extreme wave occurrence probability and strength during oceanic storms.
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IZUM, KILJ, NUK, PILJ, PNG, SAZU, UL, UM, UPUK
A climatology of the wind waves in the Mediterranean Sea is presented. The climate patterns, their spatio-temporal variability and change are based on a 40-year (1980–2019) wave hindcast, obtained by ...combining the ERA5 reanalysis wind forcing with the state-of-the-art WAVEWATCH III spectral wave model and verified against satellite altimetry. Results are presented for the typical (50th percentile) and extreme (99th percentile) significant wave height and, for the first time at the regional Mediterranean Sea scale, for the typical and extreme expected maximum individual wave height of sea states. The climate variability of wind waves is evaluated at seasonal scale by proposing and adopting a definition of seasons for the Mediterranean Sea states that is based on the satellite altimetry wave observations of stormy (winter) and calm (summer) months. The results, initially presented for the four seasons and then for winter and summer only, show the regions of the basin where largest waves occur and those with the largest temporal variability. A possible relationship with the atmospheric parameter anomalies and with teleconnection patterns (through climate indices) that motivates such variability is investigated, with results suggesting that the Scandinavian index variability is the most correlated to the Mediterranean Sea wind-wave variability, especially for typical winter sea states. Finally, a trend analysis shows that the Mediterranean Sea typical and extreme significant and maximum individual wave heights are decreasing during summer and increasing during winter.
This paper proposes a method to infer the future change in the wind-wave climate using reanalysis wind corrected to statistically match data from a regional climate model (RCM). The method is applied ...to the sea surface wind speed of the reanalysis ERA5 from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts. The correction is determined from a quantile mapping between ERA5 and the RCM at any given point in the geographical space. The issues that need to be addressed to better understand and apply the method are discussed. Corrected ERA5 wind fields are eventually used to force a spectral wave numerical model to simulate the climate of significant wave height. The correction strategy is implemented over the Adriatic Sea (a semi-enclosed basin of the Mediterranean Sea) and includes the present-day period (1981–2010) and the near-future period (2021–2050) under the two IPCC RCP4.5 and RCP8.5 concentration scenarios. Evaluation against observations of wind and waves gives confidence in the reliability of the proposed approach. Results confirm the evolution toward an overall decrease in storm wave severity in the basin, especially under RCP8.5 and in its northern area. It is expected that the methodology may be applied to other reanalyses, RCMs (including multi-model ensembles), or seas with similar characteristics.
The Mediterranean Sea is a primary source of food, ecosystem services and economic activities and one of the most active cyclogenetic regions in the world, where the influence of orographic and ...morphological features of the relatively small basin plays an important role. Together with the explosive cyclogenesis, tropical-like cyclones (also called Mediterranean Hurricanes or Medicanes) are among the strongest types of storms that can be found in the Mediterranean basin, occurring predominantly in the Ionian, Balearic and Tyrrhenian sub-basins. Similarly to tropical cyclones (Hurricanes or Typhoons), these cyclonic structures are characterized by strong rotating and translating wind fields, which often lead to a combination of remotely generated swell waves and locally generated wind waves, often referred to as crossing sea states. Despite the well-known potential of Medicanes to cause significant damage near islands and coastal zones, which is predicted to intensify as a result of climate change, to date the characterization of maximum individual waves generated during these events is still lacking. In this study, we carry out the first analysis of the large-scale geographical distribution of wave maxima within the wave fields generated during three recent Medicane events using the WAVEWATCH III® spectral wave model forced by ERA5 reanalysis winds, also investigating the influence of crossing sea states on the maximum wave amplitudes with novel statistical formulations developed for such conditions. Our results show that, as in the case of tropical cyclones, several regions of the cyclone field are characterized by crossing sea states, whose role in the formation of the maximum individual waves occurring near the eye of the storm was found to be confined. Furthermore, extreme wave predictions accounting for the local crossing conditions yield differences up to 5% compared to standard statistical distributions.
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