The increasing amount of marine microplastics and nanoplastics is due to primary (P-MPs) and secondary sources (S-MPs). Among small P-MPs and fibres from textiles, nurdles or industrial dust, the microbeads from cosmetics (peelings, scrubs) are dominant. The polyethylene and polypropylene debris, already <5 mm, enlarge Plastisphere and have a complex influence on environmental processes. Fortunately, the situation has changed with the limitation of synthetic materials in scrubs in recent years. This paper summarizes the six years of studies (2015–2021) on microplastics in cosmetics available on the Polish market. It focuses on those still available and presents the potential of Raman spectroscopy for the efficient qualitative and quantitative characterization of those materials. Finally, surface morphology's vital role in microplastics' general behaviour is underlined. The SEM/EDX and numerical modelling enables a more detailed description of particles. Display omitted •Raman spectroscopy of microbeads in cosmetics currently available on the Polish market.•The underlined crucial role of morphology in sorptive properties.•SEM/EDX evidence of diversified morphology and composition of microbeads.•Numerical description and classification of primary MPs.•PE quantitative characterization.