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  • The influence of xanthan content and oil phase composition on stability and sensoric properties of creams with Helichrysum italicum. : research work for master's thesis
    Larumbe Soldevilla, Marta
    Helichrysum italicum is a small aromatic shrub, which active substances display many biological properties such as the anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic and antimicrobial, antioxidant and antiviral. ... In cosmetics, it is used the hydrolase and essential oil of this plant, which is suitable for sensitive and dry skin because it doesn't irritate and it's well moistened. It also facilitates de regeneration of the skin and reduces wrinkles, stretch marks and scars. Day cream and night cream were studied, to optimised the content and achieve the most pleasant skin characteristics. Creams were prepared in the laboratory, at room temperature (20-25%C) with the necessary equipment and materials. Day creams were prepared 4 times, each one with a different content of xanthan (0%, 0,1%, 0,2% and 0,3%) and they were submitted to temperature aging (7 temperature cycles, each one consisting of 24 hours at 40C, 24 hours at room temperature and 24 hours at 4C). Viscosity, organoleptic properties and pH were measured before and after the temperature cycles to check if there is any physical, chemical or microbiological instability. Organoleptic properties were the suitable ones, there was not a phase separation, whereas that pH decreased after the temperature aging but sample 2 was still in the permitted range (5,5 0,5). There was not physical instability except from in sample 1 because viscosity values changed significantly from one measurement to another. Sensorial properties were evaluated in 20 volunteers, who filled in a special questionnaire and sample 2 (0,1% of xanthan) was chosen as the one with most pleasant skin characteristics because of the skin feeling, spreadability and skin comfort. Night creams were prepared 3 times, with the xanthan concentration chosen in day cream (0,1% of xanthan), but each one with a different content of jojoba oil and olive oil (10% and 3%; 6% and 7%; 3% and 10%, respectively). They were also submitted to temperature aging and viscosity, organoleptic properties and pH were also measured before and after the temperature cycles. Organoleptic properties were the suitable ones, there was not a phase separation and changes in pH were minimal, so it can also be concluded that there was no chemical or microbiological instability in the samples. Viscosity values almost didn't change from before to after the temperature aging so it could be said that there was not any physical instability. Sensorial properties were evaluated in the same 20 volunteers, who filled almost the same questionnaire and it can be concluded that sample 3 (3% of jojoba oil and 10% of olive oil) was the preferred by volunteers to use it as a daily night cream because of the skin feeling, spreadability, skin comfort and because it was not sticky and oily. It should be taken into account that the majority of volunteers pointed out that the intensity of the smell was intensive and this is not comfortable for a face cream. It should be considered to decrease the content of lavender, vanilla and essential oil of suho cvetnica.
    Vrsta gradiva - magistrsko delo ; neleposlovje za odrasle
    Založništvo in izdelava - Ljubljana : [M. Larumbe Soldevilla], 2016
    Jezik - angleški
    COBISS.SI-ID - 4109169

Nobena knjižnica v sistemu COBISS.SI nima izvoda tega gradiva.
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