Cotton provides us the most important natural fibre. High fibre quality is the major goal of cotton breeding, and introducing genes conferring longer, finer and stronger fibre from Gossypium ...barbadense to Gossypium hirsutum is an important breeding strategy. We previously analysed the G. barbadense fibre development mechanism by gene expression profiling and found two homoeologous fibre‐specific α‐expansins from G. barbadense, GbEXPA2 and GbEXPATR. GbEXPA2 (from the DT genome) is a classical α‐expansin, while its homoeolog, GbEXPATR (AT genome), encodes a truncated protein lacking the normal C‐terminal polysaccharide‐binding domain of other α‐expansins and is specifically expressed in G. barbadense. Silencing EXPA in G. hirsutum induced shorter fibres with thicker cell walls. GbEXPA2 overexpression in G. hirsutum had no effect on mature fibre length, but produced fibres with a slightly thicker wall and increased crystalline cellulose content. Interestingly, GbEXPATR overexpression resulted in longer, finer and stronger fibres coupled with significantly thinner cell walls. The longer and thinner fibre was associated with lower expression of a number of secondary wall‐associated genes, especially chitinase‐like genes, and walls with lower cellulose levels but higher noncellulosic polysaccharides which advocated that a delay in the transition to secondary wall synthesis might be responsible for better fibre. In conclusion, we propose that α‐expansins play a critical role in fibre development by loosening the cell wall; furthermore, a truncated form, GbEXPATR, has a more dramatic effect through reorganizing secondary wall synthesis and metabolism and should be a candidate gene for developing G. hirsutum cultivars with superior fibre quality.
The application of plant dyes in the textile industry has been very limited due to their limited sources, incomplete color space, and narrow color gamut, etc. Therefore, studies of the color ...properties and color gamut of natural dyes and the corresponding dyeing processes are essential for completing the color space of natural dyes and their application. In this study, water extract from the bark of Phellodendron amurense (P. amurense) was used as a dye. Dyeing properties, color gamut, and color evaluation of dyed cotton fabrics were studied, and optimal dyeing conditions were obtained. The results showed that the optimal dyeing process was pre-mordanting with liquor ratio at 1:50, P. amurense dye concentration at 5.2 g/L, mordant concentration (aluminum potassium sulfate) at 5 g/L, dyeing temperature at 70 °C, dyeing time of 30 min, mordanting time of 15 min, and pH 5. Through the optimization of the dyeing process, a maximum color gamut range was obtained with lightness L* value from 74.33 to 91.23, a* value from −0.89 to 2.96, b* value from 4.62 to 34.08, chroma C* value from 5.49 to 34.09, and hue angle h° value from 57.35° to 91.57°. Colors from light yellow to dark yellow were obtained, among which 12 colors were identified according to the Pantone Matching Systems. The color fastness against soap-washing, rubbing, and sunlight on the dyed cotton fabrics all reached grade 3 level or above, further expanding the applicability of natural dyes.
Cotton is a product that provides wealth for humanity with its widespread and compulsory usage, and alongside creating employment opportunities in the producer countries. Due to the availability of ...suitable land for agriculture, seven countries including Turkey produce close to 80% of cotton worldwide. The average cotton yield in Turkey is above the world average, placing the country close to first place among the major producing countries. On the other hand, Turkey is one of the main countries engaged in organic cotton production by using only non-transgenic seeds and therefore, its cotton as a brand is registered as "GMO Free Turkish Cotton". This provides a privileged position to the country as "the only country in the world producing GMO-free cotton". Also, the Turkish textile industry is a driving sector for the country in terms of producing high-quality products, bringing foreign exchange to the country and creating a large labor-intensive workforce for the country. In this study, the state of cotton affairs was discussed in detail using relevant data along with its trade and importance in the textile industry in the world and Turkey.
Textile industries currently face vast challenges for the active removal of colored wastewater. Indeed, sustainable, recyclable, and green approaches are still lacking to achieve this aim. Thus, the ...present study explored the utilization of highly functional, green, recyclable, fully bio-based, and cost-effective composite membranes from post-consumer cotton fabrics and palm waste for wastewater treatment purposes. Highly functional cellulose nanofibers (CNF) were produced from waste cotton fabrics and filter paper using an acid hydrolysis technique. The yield of nanofibers extracted from waste cotton fabrics and filter paper was 76.74 and 54.50%, respectively. The physical, chemical, and structural properties of nanofibers were studied using various advanced analytical techniques. The properties of isolated nanofibers were almost similar and comparable to those of commercial nanofibers. The surface charge densities were -94.0, -80.7, and -90.6 mV for the nanofibers of palm waste, cotton fibers, and filter paper, respectively. After membrane fabrication using vacuum and hot-pressing techniques, the characteristics of the membrane were analyzed. The results showed that the average pore size of the palm-waste membrane was 1.185 nm, while it was 1.875 nm for membrane from waste cotton fibers and filter paper. Congo red and methylene blue dyes were used as model solutions to understand the behavior of available functional groups and the surface ζ-potential of the membrane frameworks' interaction. The membrane made from palm waste had the highest dye removal efficiency, and it was 23% for Congo red and 44% for methylene blue. This study provides insights into the challenges associated with the use of postconsumer textile and agricultural waste, which can be potentially used in high-performance liquid filtration devices for a more sustainable society.
• The cotton fibre serves as a valuable experimental system to study cell wall synthesis in plants, but our understanding of the genetic regulation of this process during fibre development remains ...limited.
• We performed a genome-wide association study (GWAS) and identified 28 genetic loci associated with fibre quality in allotetraploid cotton. To investigate the regulatory roles of these loci, we sequenced fibre transcriptomes of 251 cotton accessions and identified 15 330 expression quantitative trait loci (eQTL).
• Analysis of local eQTL and GWAS data prioritised 13 likely causal genes for differential fibre quality in a transcriptome-wide association study (TWAS). Characterisation of distal eQTL revealed unequal genetic regulation patterns between two subgenomes, highlighted by an eQTL hotspot (Hot216) that established a genome-wide genetic network regulating the expression of 962 genes. The primary regulatory role of Hot216, and specifically the gene encoding a KIP-related protein, was found to be the transcriptional regulation of genes responsible for cell wall synthesis, which contributes to fibre length by modulating the developmental transition from rapid cell elongation to secondary cell wall synthesis.
• This study uncovered the genetic regulation of fibre-cell development and revealed the molecular basis of the temporal modulation of secondary cell wall synthesis during plant cell elongation.
Allotetraploid cotton is an economically important natural-fiber-producing crop worldwide. After polyploidization, Gossypium hirsutum L. evolved to produce a higher fiber yield and to better survive ...harsh environments than Gossypium barbadense, which produces superior-quality fibers. The global genetic and molecular bases for these interspecies divergences were unknown. Here we report high-quality de novo-assembled genomes for these two cultivated allotetraploid species with pronounced improvement in repetitive-DNA-enriched centromeric regions. Whole-genome comparative analyses revealed that species-specific alterations in gene expression, structural variations and expanded gene families were responsible for speciation and the evolutionary history of these species. These findings help to elucidate the evolution of cotton genomes and their domestication history. The information generated not only should enable breeders to improve fiber quality and resilience to ever-changing environmental conditions but also can be translated to other crops for better understanding of their domestication history and use in improvement.
The ancestors of Gossypium arboreum and Gossypium herbaceum provided the A subgenome for the modern cultivated allotetraploid cotton. Here, we upgraded the G. arboreum genome assembly by integrating ...different technologies. We resequenced 243 G. arboreum and G. herbaceum accessions to generate a map of genome variations and found that they are equally diverged from Gossypium raimondii. Independent analysis suggested that Chinese G. arboreum originated in South China and was subsequently introduced to the Yangtze and Yellow River regions. Most accessions with domestication-related traits experienced geographic isolation. Genome-wide association study (GWAS) identified 98 significant peak associations for 11 agronomically important traits in G. arboreum. A nonsynonymous substitution (cysteine-to-arginine substitution) of GaKASIII seems to confer substantial fatty acid composition (C16:0 and C16:1) changes in cotton seeds. Resistance to fusarium wilt disease is associated with activation of GaGSTF9 expression. Our work represents a major step toward understanding the evolution of the A genome of cotton.
Fiber elongation is the key determinant of fiber quality and output in cotton (Gossypium hirsutum). Although expression profiling and functional genomics provide some data, the mechanism of fiber ...development is still not well understood. Here, a gene encoding a calcium sensor, GhCaM7, was isolated based on its high expression level relative to other GhCaMs in fiber cells at the fast elongation stage. The level of expression of GhCaM7 in the wild‐type and the fuzzless/lintless mutant correspond to the presence and absence, respectively, of fiber initials. Overexpressing GhCaM7 promotes early fiber elongation, whereas GhCaM7 suppression by RNAi delays fiber initiation and inhibits fiber elongation. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) play important roles in early fiber development. ROS induced by exogenous hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) and Ca²⁺ starvation promotes early fiber elongation. GhCaM7 overexpression fiber cells show increased ROS concentrations compared with the wild‐type, while GhCaM7 RNAi fiber cells have reduced concentrations. Furthermore, we show that H₂O₂ enhances Ca²⁺ influx into the fiber and feedback‐regulates the expression of GhCaM7. We conclude that GhCaM7, Ca²⁺ and ROS are three important regulators involved in early fiber elongation. GhCaM7 might modulate ROS production and act as a molecular link between Ca²⁺ and ROS signal pathways in early fiber development.
Cotton, crucial to the economy of the American South, has also played a vital role in the making of the Mexican north. The Lower Río Bravo (Rio Grande) Valley irrigation zone on the border with Texas ...in northern Tamaulipas, Mexico, was the centerpiece of the Cárdenas government’s effort to make cotton the basis of the national economy.
This irrigation district, built and settled by Mexican Americans repatriated from Texas, was a central feature of Mexico’s effort to control and use the waters of the international river for irrigated agriculture.
Drawing on previously unexplored archival sources, Casey Walsh discusses the relations among various groups comprising the “social field” of cotton production in the borderlands. By describing the complex relationships among these groups, Walsh contributes to a clearer understanding of capitalism and the state, of transnational economic forces, of agricultural and water issues in the U.S.-Mexican borderlands, and of the environmental impacts of economic development.
Building the Borderlands crosses a number of disciplinary, thematic, and regional frontiers, integrating perspectives and literature from the United States and Mexico, from anthropology and history, and from political, economic, and cultural studies. Walsh’s important transnational study will enjoy a wide audience among scholars of Latin American and Western U.S. history, the borderlands, and environmental and agricultural history, as well as anthropologists and others interested in the environment and water rights.
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