Knitting Close to the Edge Gilson, Jools
Textile,
1/18/2023, Letnik:
ahead-of-print, Številka:
ahead-of-print
Journal Article
Recenzirano
Odprti dostop
This visual essay focuses on hand knitting, environment and activism through examples from The Knitting Map (2005) in Cork, Ireland, Romy Owens' Unbearable Absence of Landscapes (2015) in Tulsa, ...Oklahoma and The Tempestry Project's National Parks Project (2016), across the US. The essay re-imagines the knotting of knitting as political dissent through a focus on edges and edginess. Such edges relate to these works in multiple ways - through the materiality of knitting as object (material edges), processual and contextual quality (edginess) as well as their engagement with communities, urban / rural environments and climate. Playfulness and joy as methodology attend this essay through documentation, critical strategy and performative writing.
Computerized knitting has recently become a topic of interest for academic research. Most of the research focuses on flatbed knitting machines. However, most fabrics are usually knitted using various ...circular knitting technologies. This paper focuses on seamless digital knitting, a special kind of circular knitting used to create seamless garments on a knitted cylinder. This technology allows for the creation of garments with multiple knitting structures, which affects the properties and behavior of the material throughout the fabric. Existing design tools for programming seamless knitting are based on discrete definitions of zones in the fabric, which limits the design space of the knitting machines. A novel computational approach for seamless circular knitting design and programming is presented here. We created a design tool that is intended to be used by fashion and textile designers. The tool enables the creation of gradual transition between knit structures and produces organic patterns, which are extremely difficult to achieve using traditional design tools.
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•Smooth transitions between zones with different properties can be achieved using a computational design tool.•Computational tie-dye is a sustainable process for creating patterns without going through the traditional dyeing process.•Computational design tool generates random patterns that are extremely difficult to create using standard design tools.•Computational design tools allow designers to skip mediators in the design workflow to engage better with knitting machines.
A compiler for 3D machine knitting McCann, James; Albaugh, Lea; Narayanan, Vidya ...
ACM transactions on graphics,
07/2016, Letnik:
35, Številka:
4
Journal Article
Recenzirano
Odprti dostop
Industrial knitting machines can produce finely detailed, seamless, 3D surfaces quickly and without human intervention. However, the tools used to program them require detailed manipulation and ...understanding of low-level knitting operations. We present a compiler that can automatically turn assemblies of high-level shape primitives (tubes, sheets) into low-level machine instructions. These high-level shape primitives allow knit objects to be scheduled, scaled, and otherwise shaped in ways that require thousands of edits to low-level instructions. At the core of our compiler is a heuristic transfer planning algorithm for knit cycles, which we prove is both sound and complete. This algorithm enables the translation of high-level shaping and scheduling operations into needle-level operations. We show a wide range of examples produced with our compiler and demonstrate a basic visual design interface that uses our compiler as a backend.
The dart transfer of knitted pattern can be used to simplify the knitting process and improve the fabric appearance. This paper expounds the influence of the dart transfer on fabrics in the ...transformation of forming knitting patterns. By comparing the pattern, knitting process and fabric appearance before and after dart transfer, it Puts forward that the dart transfer between mutually parallel directions are allowed, but the dart transfer between directions perpendicular to each other are prohibited. It proposes the restriction on angle size of the dart transfer and gives a rotation method to overcome it that is to rotate the pattern to keep the number of stitches constant. The article studies an application example of the dart transfer to prove the practicability of the principle.
Automatic Machine Knitting of 3D Meshes Narayanan, Vidya; Albaugh, Lea; Hodgins, Jessica ...
ACM transactions on graphics,
08/2018, Letnik:
37, Številka:
3
Journal Article
Recenzirano
We present the first computational approach that can transform three-dimensional (3D) meshes, created by traditional modeling programs, directly into instructions for a computer-controlled knitting ...machine. Knitting machines are able to robustly and repeatably form knitted 3D surfaces from yarn but have many constraints on what they can fabricate. Given user-defined starting and ending points on an input mesh, our system incrementally builds a helix-free, quad-dominant mesh with uniform edge lengths, runs a tracing procedure over this mesh to generate a knitting path, and schedules the knitting instructions for this path in a way that is compatible with machine constraints. We demonstrate our approach on a wide range of 3D meshes.
A series of cost‐effective hyper‐cross‐linked polymers (HCLPs) are synthesized from naphthalene via the external cross‐linker (ECL) knitting method, the solvent knitting method, and the Scholl ...coupling reaction, respectively. According to multiple characterizations, the resulting polymers are thermally stable and fluorescent with large specific surface areas (SSAs) and narrow pore distributions. In particular the HCLP synthesized using dimethoxymethane as the ECL exhibits SSAs up to 2870 m2 g−1 and shows a great potential in gas adsorption applications. Naphthol and 1‐methylnaphthalene are used as monomers to synthesize HCLPs by the above three methods to investigate whether introducing functional groups to naphthalene would improve properties of the resulting polymers. Moreover, HCLPs feature high SSAs, outstanding thermal and fluorescent performances, and facile synthesis, making them promising candidates for industrial applications.
Hyper‐cross‐linked polymers (HCLPs) with specific surface area (SSA) up to 2870 m2 g−1 are synthesized from naphthalene via the external cross‐linker knitting method, the solvent knitting method, and the Scholl coupling reaction, respectively. The low‐cost raw material, facile synthesis, outstanding thermal and fluorescent performances, and large SSAs make the HCLPs promising for industrial applications.
In order to address the problem of the scarce stitch and color of conventional warp-knitted jacquard fabric, this paper puts forward a method of knitting single/double jacquard shoe vamp fabric with ...a multiple pattern and color on a high-speed warp knitting jacquard machine. In electronic jacquard systems, lateral movements of jacquard bars, relative to the needle bar, combined with controlled stitch structure and displacement data, facilitate the formation of loop and double loop stitches. And two split jacquard bars in half-gauge in odd and even wales can be threaded in yarns with different colors or varied dyeing performances, then the two-color jacquard effect can be obtained combined with stitch structure design. Taking the specific process as an example, this paper introduces a process design method for single/double jacquard shoe vamp materials, including raw material selection, stitch design, jacquard design, process parameter design, textile finishing design, et al., which can provide a theoretical foundation for the design and development of other warp-knitted jacquard fabrics.
There are different techniques that can be successfully applied for the production of 3D knitted materials or those with 3D effects on knitting machines with electronic selection. In the present work ...were treated different aspects of some knits with 3D embossed drawings obtained by making incomplete rows in order to obtain an embossed knit effect. The designed knit was made on the knitting rectilinear machine, CMS 530 HP 7.2, finesse 14". This machine is a new generation machine, a multigauge knitting machine. This means that the machine is of finesse 14 but it is equipped with knitting needles that can be selected so as to obtain knits of finesse 7. The drawing chosen to be embossed on the knit was transposed on a knit jacquard, made in two colors, on a knitting machine Stoll. After importing the image into the M1plus graphic program, which is a design program of STOLL knitting machines, it was placed on a jacquard structure in two colors. In the case of these knits with embossed drawings, 3D increased attention is required to the adjustments made on the knitting machine. The most important adjustment is that of the main and auxiliary pulls of the knitwear, as well as the adjustments of the looping depths for the retained stitches, but also for those made on the opposite cast iron within the incomplete rows.
Seamless garments reducing the cutting and sewing processes are created using seamless knitting technology. This type of garment, being less dependent on labor, is knitted as a whole and makes a ...great contribution to improving production efficiency. More importantly, seamless garments are more comfortable and natural compared with those styles produced by traditional technology. However, the techniques of seamless garments are huge and complex, making the pattern design process more difficult. In addition, the seamless knitting technology has great restrictions to the styles with rich shapes due to the limitation of the devices. Therefore, how to knit more complex styles using seamless knitting technology still faces great challenges. For these reasons, this study extensively investigated the knitting principle of seamless garments and proposed six knitting models for different kinds of garments. Then the transformation methods from 3D style to 2D pattern were explored respectively based on the knitting characteristics of each model. Finally, by package programming in the SDS-ONE APEX design system, the actual knitting for six types of garments was conducted on the computerized flat knitting machine. The results showed that different types of seamless garments have significant differences in the pattern design and the approaches proposed above can make different kinds of garments using seamless knitting technology.
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