This study aims to extend color shade range of Rubia tinctorum L. (Dyer's madder) natural dye on wool textiles via binary combination of Al, Sn, Cr, Fe, Cu, Ni, Co, Zn mordants. Wool yarns were ...premordanted, dyed with 75.0%owf madder dye, and characterized for their color strength, colorimetric parameters, and color fastness. Nature of single and binary metal cations substantially affected color shades, color strength, and fastness properties due to different interactions of dye, metal mordants, and wool polymer chains. This resulted in the development of novel color shades having different lightness, enhanced color strength, and color fastness properties. Combination of mordants had a synergistic effect on dye uptake which enhanced color strength values. Moreover, with the aid of binary metal mordants, colors of some legally restricted mordants like chromium can be reproduced which is important from ecological viewpoint. Binary mordanted samples exhibited superior color fastness. Results represent that this viable method can extend the color gamut of madder natural dye on wool with satisfactory color fastness and lessen the hazards associated with the use of some toxic metal mordants.
A simple method was used to extend the color shade range of Dyer's madder on wool yarns
Wool yarns were premordanted with binary combinations of different metal mordants and dyed with Dyer's madder
New color shades were obtained on wool yarns
Binary mixed metal mordanted dyed wool showed improved dye uptake and color fastness
The technique of natural dye printing Savitaia-Baraghin, Iarina
Studiul Artelor şi Culturologie: istorie, teorie, practică (Online),
04/2023, Letnik:
43, Številka:
2(43)
Journal Article
Recenzirano
Odprti dostop
The natural dye printing technique is an old method of dyeing textile fibers and fabrics with vegetable dyes, which includes various techniques and technologies .This article covers the creation of ...artistic design images on fabrics by using plant materials. Eco-printing can be a useful practice for the future artists in the field of textile arts, to achieve a wide range of unique textures using local plant material.
Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) promote the utilization of renewable materials and processing methodologies for achieving circularity in the fashion industry production. Hence, the research was ...initiated to investigate the innovative and renewable plant-based sources of mordants and colorants for textiles that benefit the environment and human health alike. The research examinations established mugwort herb, rue herb, black cherry stems, and hops flower as a sustainable and innovative source of mordants and colorants on cotton fabrics. The Atomic Absorption Spectrometry (AAS) analysis of 6% stock herbal infusions identified the highest levels of copper and ferrous content in hops flower, and black cherry stems of 6.5 mg/l and 11 mg/l respectively as a prospective renewable and innovative source of mordants and colorants. Their applications on textiles would prevent the fatal mining and depletion of mineral ores of copper and ferrous elements, and metal toxicity to the ecosystem would be combated. Very good rub fastness and wash fastness to color staining, on the other hand, fair lightfastness ratings were gained. The cotton fabrics pre-treated with black cherry stems and colored with hops flowers exhibited the minimum transmittance percentage in the UVB region at 12.98% therefore practically appropriate for summer wear. Evaluation of ecological parameters, ATR-FTIR study of herbs and their treated fabrics, and Life Cycle Analysis is recommended for future work.
The materials of six Karen textiles from the British Museum’s collection were investigated with the main aim of studying the production changes over the course of the nineteenth century and how these ...changes related to local and colonial trade networks. The textiles span chronologically from the 1830s to the early 1900s according to their attribution dates, and include traditional garments such as tunics and skirts, in addition to representing a broad colour palette and different dyeing and weaving techniques. The investigation was conducted non-invasively by using digital microscopy, broadband multispectral imaging (MSI) and fibre optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS). The results guided a sampling campaign during which samples were taken and investigated by optical microscopy (OM), scanning electron microscopy energy dispersive X-ray spectrometry (SEM–EDX) and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to diode array detector and tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC–DAD-MS/MS). Local natural dyes, such as red and yellow from
Morinda citrifolia
, lac dye (
Kerria lacca
), gamboge (
Garcinia
sp.), turmeric (
Curcuma longa
), indigo and tannins were found in the older textiles, supporting a possible early production, whereas mixtures of natural and synthetic dyes, including synthetic alizarin (CI 58000), rhodamine B (CI 45170), orange I (CI 14600), diamond green B (CI 42000), diamond green G (CI 42040), auramine O (CI 41000), naphthol yellow S (CI 10316), chrysamine G (CI 22250), crystal violet (CI 42555) and Pigment Red 53:1 (CI 15585:1) were identified in the later textiles. Observations on mordants revealed the use of aluminium, tin and chrome, whereas fibre characterisation highlighted the use not only of cotton (
Gossypium
sp.) but also of felted wool imported from Europe and Chinese silk dyed with the Chinese cork tree (
Phellodendron chinense
) yellow dye. The results draw an interesting picture of the introduction of new dyeing materials and techniques in Myanmar over the nineteenth century, and how these impacted the production of traditional Karen textiles.
Natural dyes and natural dyeing have been on the agenda of the scientific community for a long time due to their many advantages. Nonetheless, low affinity, low fixation rates of natural dyes, and ...occurrence of closely related metal-containing waste baths can be listed as disadvantages. This paper offers a different approach to eliminate these disadvantages. To that end, wool fabrics were dyed in the presence of four different natural dye sources (green walnut shells/husks, barberry shrub roots, madder roots, and alkanet roots) and three metal-based (aluminum, copper, and iron) mordanting agents. Baths remaining from the first dyeings were used an extra four times for repetitive dyeings. It was revealed that satisfying/acceptable colors and sufficient color yields could be obtained for all-natural dyes even after the 5th dyeing using the same dye bath. However, it was regarded as reasonable to obtain lighter colors and lower color yields with an increasing number of repetitions. The color shifts started to be observed especially after the second dyeings, which could be attributed to the significantly reduced amount of natural dye and the mordanting agent left in the waste dye baths. This divergence was seen at least in barberry shrub root-based dyeings. In addition, it was interesting to note that wet fastnesses of all dyeings with all mordants were generally good and even improved with repeated dyeings, while light fastnesses were initially medium-low and decreased slightly with repeated dyeings.
The textile fragments of the funeral clothes found in the 17th and 18th century crypts were subjected to spectroscopic, spectrometric, and microbial investigation. The next-generation sequencing ...enabled DNA identification of microorganisms at the genus and in five cases to the species level. The soft hydrofluoric acid extraction method was optimized to isolate different classes of dyes from samples that had direct contact with human remains. High-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode matrix and tandem mass spectrometry detectors with electrospray ionization (HPLC-DAD-ESI-MS/MS) enabled the detection and identification of 34 colourants that are present in historical textiles. Some of them are thus far unknown and uncommon dyes. Indigo, madder, cochineal, turmeric, tannin-producing plant, and young fustic were identified as sources of dyes in textiles. Scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDS) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) were used to identify and characterize fibres and mordants in funeral gowns. Of the 23 textile samples tested, 19 were silk while the remaining four were recognized as wool. The presence of iron, aluminium, sodium, and calcium suggests that they were used as mordants. Traces of copper, silica, and magnesium might originate from the contaminants. The large amount of silver indicated the presence of metal wire in one of the dyed silk textiles. SEM images showed that textile fibres were highly degraded.
The present work deals with the dyeing of mulberry silk yarns with a mixture of two colorants extracted from Lawsonia inermis and Artocarpus lacucha. The dyes were extracted with acid, alkaline and ...neutral medium. Different proportions of the dye and metallic mordants were made and the dyeing was performed at 80°C with pre, post and meta mordanting techniques. The extent of dyeing was studied on the basis of K/S values. It was found that, the highest dye intensity was obtained when a mild alkaline medium was used for dye extraction. The highest color value was obseved for the combination of monkey jack dye mordanted with copper sulfate by the meta mordanting method. The color fastness properties were also found to be good. The phytochemical analysis of the selected dyes showed the presence of active components like saponins, glycosides, terpenoids and tannins, which was further confirmed by Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy.
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