겨드랑이 무의 크기에 따른 상의의 운동기능성과 외관 평가 박선희; Sunhee Park; 이예진 ...
Fashion & textile research journal,
08/2019, Volume:
21, Issue:
4
Journal Article
Open access
This study used a three-dimensional-analysis method to quantitatively analyze the change of clothing appearance according to a gusset added to bodice and sleeve patterns for men in their twenties. ...Comparing six different patterns, the study found that patterns P1 and P2 with little gusset did not have a large difference in the strain map, and pattern P6 had no gusset in the motion of raising the arm 28° to the side (M1). When the arm was raised 45° to the side (M2), the P1 pattern had the smallest deformation, and only the P5 pattern had a large deformation from the neck to the armhole area. In contrast, except for in the P3 pattern, large wrinkles formed in the front and back when the arm was raised above 158° (M3) from the side of the waist to the armpit. In addition, P3 had the smallest change in the hem of the bodice and sleeves. However, the appearance of P2, P3, and P5 was excellent when the arm was moved forward (M4), and the P2 and P5 patterns were the smallest at the bodice and sleeve hem. The P6 pattern showed the least fitness in terms of function. In the case of raising the arm, there was a strong correlation between gusset size and motion function, but when the motion of the arm changed, the motion function did not improved just by changing the ease size.
가상착의 시스템을 이용한 여고생의 보디스 원형 개발 전성연; Seongyeon Jeon
Fashion & textile research journal,
04/2019, Volume:
21, Issue:
2
Journal Article
Open access
This study develops a bodice pattern for high school girls aged 17 to 19 that use virtual garment simulation. The study developed a bodice pattern based on the fit evaluation result for two selected ...bodice patterns. The basic formula of the design method based on the result of 3 times of fit evaluation is as follows: waist back length = stature/8×1.85cm, waist front length=waist back length+bust/40+0.7cm, front bust girth=bust/2+4cm, back bust girth=Chest/2+3cm, armscye depth=Chest/4+0.5cm, back interscye length=bishoulder length -1.2cm, front interscye length=back interscye length -1.2cm, front neck width=back neck width -0.3cm. The developed bodice pattern used Bishoulder Length as a criteria for the calculation formula of back interscye length, and back interscye length as a criteria for the calculation formula of front interscye length. The fit evaluation showed the relevance of the bishoulder length, front interscye length, and back interscye length based on a comparison of the calculated figure. A bodice pattern with great body suitability and fitness to high school girls was developed through 3D virtual garment simulation that calculated the application of body proportion to width. This study only analyzed the evaluation result of a virtual model only in a representative form; however, a pattern study is also proposed to compare and analyze the design methods of patterns by body type.
3D 가상착의 프로그램을 활용한 청소년 남학생의 보디스 원형 비교 차수정; Su-joung Cha
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture,
10/2018, Volume:
26, Issue:
5
Journal Article
Open access
In this study, we used the 3D simulation program to create bodice patterns for adolescents boy students and analyze the fitting and air gap through 3D simulation. The purpose of this study was to ...select the bodice pattern method that best suited the body shapes of the adolescents male students. The subjects of this study were the French E pattern, Japanese N pattern, and Korean industrial L and J patterns. The applied size was the sixth Korean human body size survey data of 2010 Korea. The age range of the subjects was 13-18 years. DC Suite Program Ver. 5.1 was used, and SPSS 23.0 program was used for data analysis. As a result of comparing the shapes of the bodice patterns in the 3D simulation program, the E pattern had two waist darts on the front and one shoulder dart and one waist dart on the back, and the J and L patterns only had one dart on the back. The N pattern had no darts on either the front or back. As a result of examining the appearance evaluation of the pattern, air gap, color distribution, and clothing cross-section, the E pattern was evaluated as the closest to the body, and the N pattern was evaluated as the pattern with the largest allowance. The J pattern was evaluated as the best fit for body shape of the male adolescents. However, it is necessary to develop a pattern system by adding extra ease in setting the center front length.
베이직 바디스 입체재단법 비교 분석 김영미; Young-mi Kim; 장정아 ...
Fashion & textile research journal,
12/2018, Volume:
20, Issue:
6
Journal Article
Open access
This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively ...analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker’s intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.
Based on the valuable information aquired about the arm hole line of the bodice, we reexamined the joint problem between the 3-dimensional shell of the sleeve and the bodice shell. In the examination ...we made a sleeve model consisting of two parts (lower and upper). The results obtained were as follows : 1. For the lower part of the sleeve, no fewer than 11 types of basic patterns in the chosen 18 patterns were in accordance with the plane developements of the respective sleeve models. This result tells us that the sleeve model was much improved after using information on the shape of the arm hole of the bodice. 2. For the upper part of the sleeve, only one of the basic patterns accorded with the developed models. But result does not indicate that these models or the basic patterns are unreasonable. This is because each basic sleeve pattern includes deliberately and implicitly some space to make the intricate easing contraction when joined with the bodice shell. Nevertheless, as far as the model is concerned, darts are simply used. In other words, each basic pattern is based on an assumption about the shape when joined to the bodice shell. 3. The study shows that the plane developement curve of this new sleeve model should be adopted as an effective barometer to estimate the shape of a 3-dimensional basic sleeve when joined to the arm hole line of the bodice shell.
Provider: - Institution: - Data provided by Europeana Collections- Drawing made by David Ring for the visualisation of the Europeana Fashion Thesaurus. The description of the concept in this drawing ...is: Originally, tight fitting, sleeveless garments for the torso and bust, quilted and strengthened with whalebone, worn chiefly by women, but also by men. Bodices were typically cross-laced at the side or back, and worn over a blouse or chemise. The term comes from "a pair of bodies," the use of the plural referring to the fact that the garment was made in two pieces laced together. The term also now refers to the generally tight-fitting upper part of a woman's dress or to any tight-fitting outer vest or waistcoat (AAT).- Drawing made by David Ring for the visualisation of the Europeana Fashion Thesaurus. The description of the concept in this drawing is: Originally, tight fitting, sleeveless garments for the torso and bust, quilted and strengthened with whalebone, worn chiefly by women, but also by men. Bodices were typically cross-laced at the side or back, and worn over a blouse or chemise. The term comes from "a pair of bodies," the use of the plural referring to the fact that the garment was made in two pieces laced together. The term also now refers to the generally tight-fitting upper part of a woman's dress or to any tight-fitting outer vest or waistcoat (AAT)- All metadata published by Europeana are available free of restriction under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication. However, Europeana requests that you actively acknowledge and give attribution to all metadata sources including Europeana
The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. ...The results were as follows; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR (W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men`s average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.
