The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. ...The results were as follows; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR (W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men`s average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.
This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20`s. Scanning was done for ...ten postures via vitus smart/pro (Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.
남성상의 원형의 여유량 설정을 위한 연구 김진선; Jin Sun Kim
한국의류산업학회지,
10/2008, Volume:
10, Issue:
5
Journal Article
Open access
The purpose of this study was to establish the proper amount of eases according to the body type of men's bodice basic pattern. The 3 subjects in 30's men were selected for developing fitted pattern ...for each type. And the results of the wearing test for individual subject by distributing ease amount are as follows. The wearing test is administrated by a division of 12cm, 15m, and 18cm areas respectively after separating the fitted pattern for each type in a vertical and horizontal ways. There exists a significant difference in ease according to the measures of chest circumference of subjects. Also, it is shown that the more comfortable in function, the better visible in appearance as the ease gets proper. As to regions, the amount and ratio of ease chest circumference are increased in proportion to the size of the chest circumference. The scye depth is affected by the ease of chest circumference, while the ease of the interscye and the back breadth are lessened due to the effect of their appearances. And the side breadth is required as a buffer to complement the shortage of the interscye and the back breadth because the ease of either the interscye or the back breadth is partially transferred in motion.
We proposed a 3-dimensional model based on the idea that basic bodice patterns are based on the development of a 3-dimensional shell constructed from a developable surface with an unexpandable ...paper-like sheet. It was confirmed that the developiment of the 3-dimensional model conforms to basic bodice patterns. Then a classification of design methods of 18 basic bodice patterns was examnined. The results are summarized as follows : 1) It was found that 5 out of 18 basic bodice patterns are the same in width for the front and back body parts and the other basic bodice patterns have wider back body parts than front body parts. 2) It was found that 12 basic bodice patterns for back body parts and 4 front body parts conform to the plane-development of the 3-dimensional model. Three of them conform to the plane-development of the 3-dimensional model for front and back body parts. 3) It was found that 2 basic bodice patterns satisfied all our conditions for a 3-dimensional model. 4) It was presumed that the 3-dimenesional shell of the basic bodice pattern, having wider back body parts than front body parts, can be explained by extending this model.
This research was undertaken to compare basic bodice prototypes for Internet shopping customer, and to select a profitable fit vacant space quantity between clothing and body. A total one hundred of ...eighteen outfits (4 types of pattern x 9 subjects x5 body areas) were constructed with basic bodice drafting method of japan Bunk` Women`s University according to nine male body types. Fifty-two experts analysis of the different prototypes as five body area and evaluate the most appropriate ease amount and stabilization of the simulation images on the computer. The experiments with automated methods using, simulation image are based on AZ program of `FORAY, japan- Data was analyzed using percentiles, frequency and X . Taken together, the present result of vacant space quantity and stability evaluation through images shows that there is a significant difference in the size variation of the chest circumference, shoulder slope and waist circumference. In case of ease amount, chest area, shoulder slope, waist area and armhole except neckline area were shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern without size change. In case of stabilization, the chest area, shoulder slope and armhole except waist area and neckline area was shown the best on the basic bodice pattern without size change. However the waist area was shown on the basic bodice pattern plus 2 cm, neckline was shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern plus 1cm.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the shapes of 3-dimensional basic bodice patterns by using a 3-dimensional model. In this paper we proposed a modified 3-dimensional model that could be ...applied for basic bodice patterns with different widths in front and back body parts. It was examined whether the side and the arm hole of these bodice patterns are on the same plane. Furthermore, the relationship between body width and the amount of side darts was considered in detail. The results are summarized as follows. 1) It was found that there are 11 types (A, D, E, G, H, I, J, K, L, O, S) out of 18 basic bodice patterns which can be explained by the modified 3-dimensional model. Four types (A, E, I, S) out of 11 have the same width in the front and back body parts. Three types (D, K, L) out of 11 have wider back body parts than front body pats and the remaining four types (G, H, J, O) have narrower back body parts than front body parts. 2) Seven types (B, C, F, M, P, R, T) out of 18 basic bodice patterns were not concordant with their developed patterns of the modified 3-dimensional model. The shifting distance between the shoulder points of the front body part and the back body part is permissible to construct a 3-dimensional shell. 3) It was concluded that the modified 3-dimensional model can be used effectively when determining the height of the bust, body width, the amount of side darts and the arm hole line.
Fifty tight-fitting patterns of the front bodice (T) were made by draping on the replicas of female trunks using sheeting. The front surface of each replica was divided into ten blocks by standard ...lines, and the blocks were traced. The gap lengths on each side of the blocks of T were compared with those of the front surface development patterns (D) made from the same replicas. The gap lengths of T were calculated by subtracting the side lengths of the body surfaces (B) from those of T; and the gap lengths of D were measured on the side of D. On T, most of the gaps were positive, as were those on D, showing that the side lengths of blocks on T were longer than those of B. However, on the sides of the center front and the front shoulder blocks of T covering the concave parts of the trunk, the gaps were negative. Therefore, the area of the center front blocks of T was smaller than that of D; and the curvature of the shoulder lines of T was more gradual than that of D. In order to construct a T, which fitted each individual without draping but by drafting, it was necessary to add positive and negative gap lengths to the side lengths of blocks on B which conformed to the body's concave and convex surfaces.
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