A number of models are available for science and engineering purposes that numerically simulate nearshore hydrodynamics and the corresponding morphological evolution. However, the models include ...adjustable coefficients in parameterizations for physical processes that need to be calibrated, and thus there remains room for improvement by including additional physics. One such model is XBeach, which can simulate erosion during storms with proper calibration based on observations. The modeled sediment transport, especially in the cross-shore direction, is sensitive to the adjustable coefficients, with preferred values that are site and event specific. Here, the skill of XBeach is investigated by comparing 1-dimensional (cross-shore) depth-averaged simulations with observations of waves, currents, and sandbar migration across an Atlantic Ocean beach. Calibration of coefficients improved the agreement of the computed results with observed wave heights, offshore-directed mean currents (undertow), the wave-orbital-velocity third moments (skewness and asymmetry), and onshore/offshore sandbar migration although the proposed coefficient values depend on the parameterizations used. For example, including a variable breaking-wave roller energy model resulted in more skillful predictions of undertow than using the default constant coefficient value. Using the calibrated roller coefficients and corresponding undertow, XBeach simulated the observed offshore migration of the sandbar. Onshore transport in XBeach is driven by non-sinusoidal wave-orbital velocities, and proposed values for coefficients depend on the parameterization used to estimate skewness and asymmetry and the associated transport, as well as on incident wave conditions. XBeach calculations of cross-shore sediment transport rates were compared with those estimated by a commonly used sediment transport formula based on laboratory experiments. The inter-comparison suggests that using a wave-induced onshore transport parameter 3 or 4 times larger than the default value may at least in part compensate for the lack of bottom-boundary-layer-streaming-driven-onshore transport in XBeach.
•XBeach is successfully applied to simulate onshore and offshore sandbar migration.•Revised roller dissipation model improved undertow prediction in the bar region.•The calibrated onshore transport depends on the modeled wave skewness/asymmetry.
Eddies and vortices associated with breaking waves rapidly disperse pollution, nutrients, and terrestrial material along the coast. Although theory and numerical models suggest that vorticity is ...generated near the ends of a breaking wave crest, this hypothesis has not been tested in the field. Here we report the first observations of wave‐generated vertical vorticity (e.g., horizontal eddies), and find that individual short‐crested breaking waves generate significant vorticity O(0.01 s−1) in the surfzone. Left‐ and right‐handed wave ends generate vorticity of opposite sign, consistent with theory. In contrast to theory, the observed vorticity also increases inside the breaking crest, possibly owing to onshore advection of vorticity generated at previous stages of breaking or from the shape of the breaking region. Short‐crested breaking transferred energy from incident waves to lower frequency rotational motions that are a primary mechanism for dispersion near the shoreline.
Key Points
Short‐crested breaking waves generate vertical vorticity in the surfzone
Breaking transfers wave motions into lower frequency vortical motions
Onshore sediment transport and sandbar migration are important to the morphological evolution of beaches but are not well understood. Here, a model that accounts for fluid accelerations in waves ...predicts the onshore sandbar migration observed on an ocean beach. In both the observations and the model, the location of the maximum acceleration-induced transport moves shoreward with the sandbar, resulting in feedback between waves and morphology that drives the bar shoreward until conditions change. A model that combines the effects of transport by waves and mean currents simulated both onshore and offshore bar migration observed over a 45-day period.
The performance of a linear depth inversion algorithm, cBathy, applied to coastal video imagery was assessed using observations of water depth from vessel-based hydrographic surveys and in-situ ...altimeters for a wide range of wave conditions (0.3 < significant wave height < 4.3 m) on a sandy Atlantic Ocean beach near Duck, North Carolina. Comparisons of video-based cBathy bathymetry with surveyed bathymetry were similar to previous studies (root mean square error (RMSE) = 0.75 m, bias = −0.26 m). However, the cross-shore locations of the surfzone sandbar in video-derived bathymetry were biased onshore 18–40 m relative to the survey when offshore wave heights exceeded 1.2 m or were greater than half of the bar crest depth, and broke over the sandbar. The onshore bias was 3–4 m when wave heights were less than 0.8 m and were not breaking over the sandbar. Comparisons of video-derived seafloor elevations with in-situ altimeter data at three locations onshore of, near, and offshore of the surfzone sandbar over ∼1 year provide the first assessment of the cBathy technique over a wide range of wave conditions. In the outer surf zone, video-derived results were consistent with long-term patterns of bathymetric change (r2 = 0.64, RMSE = 0.26 m, bias = −0.01 m), particularly when wave heights were less than 1.2 m (r2 = 0.83). However, during storms when wave heights exceeded 3 m, video-based cBathy over-estimated the depth by up to 2 m. Near the sandbar, the sign of depth errors depended on the location relative to wave breaking, with video-based depths overestimated (underestimated) offshore (onshore) of wave breaking in the surfzone. Wave speeds estimated by video-based cBathy at the initiation of wave breaking often were twice the speeds predicted by linear theory, and up to three times faster than linear theory during storms. Estimated wave speeds were half as fast as linear theory predictions at the termination of wave breaking shoreward of the sandbar. These results suggest that video-based cBathy should not be used to track the migration of the surfzone sandbar using data when waves are breaking over the bar nor to quantify morphological evolution during storms. However, these results show that during low energy conditions, cBathy estimates could be used to quantify seasonal patterns of seafloor evolution.
•Video-based depth inversion estimates are compared with in-situ altimeter seafloor elevations and vessel-based surveys.•The cross-shore location of the surfzone sandbar in video-based cBathy is biased onshore when waves break over the sandbar.•Outer-surf zone video-based cBathy results were consistent with long-term bathymetric change measured by the altimeter.•During storms, video-based cBathy over-estimated depths by up to 2 m relative to the altimeters.
Wave dissipation by muddy seafloors Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt
Geophysical research letters,
April 2008, Letnik:
35, Številka:
7
Journal Article
Recenzirano
Odprti dostop
Muddy seafloors cause tremendous dissipation of ocean waves. Here, observations and numerical simulations of waves propagating between 5‐ and 2‐m water depths across the muddy Louisiana continental ...shelf are used to estimate a frequency‐ and depth‐dependent dissipation rate function. Short‐period sea (4 s) and swell (7 s) waves are shown to transfer energy to long‐period (14 s) infragravity waves, where, in contrast with theories for fluid mud, the observed dissipation rates are highest. The nonlinear energy transfers are most rapid in shallow water, consistent with the unexpected strong increase of the dissipation rate with decreasing depth. These new results may explain why the southwest coast of India offers protection for fishing (and for the 15th century Portuguese fleet) only after large waves and strong currents at the start of the monsoon move nearshore mud banks from about 5‐ to 2‐m water depth. When used with a numerical nonlinear wave model, the new dissipation rate function accurately simulates the large reduction in wave energy observed in the Gulf of Mexico.
Abstract
Low-frequency currents and eddies transport sediment, pathogens, larvae, and heat along the coast and between the shoreline and deeper water. Here, low-frequency currents (between 0.1 and ...4.0 mHz) observed in shallow surfzone waters for 120 days during a wide range of wave conditions are compared with theories for generation by instabilities of alongshore currents, by ocean-wave-induced sea surface modulations, and by a nonlinear transfer of energy from breaking waves to low-frequency motions via a two-dimensional inverse energy cascade. For these data, the low-frequency currents are not strongly correlated with shear of the alongshore current, with the strength of the alongshore current, or with wave-group statistics. In contrast, on many occasions, the low-frequency currents are consistent with an inverse energy cascade from breaking waves. The energy of the low-frequency surfzone currents increases with the directional spread of the wave field, consistent with vorticity injection by short-crested breaking waves, and structure functions increase with spatial lags, consistent with a cascade of energy from few-meter-scale vortices to larger-scale motions. These results include the first field evidence for the inverse energy cascade in the surfzone and suggest that breaking waves and nonlinear energy transfers should be considered when estimating nearshore transport processes across and along the coast.
SWAN model predictions, initialized with directional wave buoy observations in 550-m water depth offshore of a steep, submarine canyon, are compared with wave observations in 5.0-, 2.5-, and 1.0-m ...water depths. Although the model assumptions include small bottom slopes, the alongshore variations of the nearshore wave field caused by refraction over the steep canyon are predicted well over the 50
days of observations. For example, in 2.5-m water depth, the observed and predicted wave heights vary by up to a factor of 4 over about 1000
m alongshore, and wave directions vary by up to about 10°, sometimes changing from south to north of shore normal. Root-mean-square errors of the predicted wave heights, mean directions, periods, and radiation stresses (less than 0.13
m, 5°, 1
s, and 0.05
m
3/s
2 respectively) are similar near and far from the canyon. Squared correlations between the observed and predicted wave heights usually are greater than 0.8 in all water depths. However, the correlations for mean directions and radiation stresses decrease with decreasing water depth as waves refract and become normally incident. Although mean wave properties observed in shallow water are predicted accurately, nonlinear energy transfers from near-resonant triads are not modeled well, and the observed and predicted wave energy spectra can differ significantly at frequencies greater than the spectral peak, especially for narrow-band swell.
To investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on average 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different times, and the subsequent ...evolution of currents and morphology was observed for a range of wave and tidal conditions. In addition, circulation was simulated with the numerical modeling system COAWST, initialized with the observed incident waves and channel bathymetry, and with an extended set of wave conditions and channel geometries. The simulated flows are consistent with alongshore flows and rip‐current circulation patterns observed in the surf zone. Near the offshore‐directed flows that develop in the channel, the dominant terms in modeled momentum balances are wave‐breaking accelerations, pressure gradients, advection, and the vortex force. The balances vary spatially, and are sensitive to wave conditions and the channel geometry. The observed and modeled maximum offshore‐directed flow speeds are correlated with a parameter based on the alongshore gradient in breaking‐wave‐driven‐setup across the nonuniform bathymetry (a function of wave height and angle, water depths in the channel and on the sandbar, and a breaking threshold) and the breaking‐wave‐driven alongshore flow speed. The offshore‐directed flow speed increases with dissipation on the bar and reaches a maximum (when the surf zone is saturated) set by the vertical scale of the bathymetric variability.
Key Points
Rip currents, feeder currents, and meandering alongshore currents were observed in single channels dredged in the surf zone
The model COAWST reproduces the observed circulation patterns, and is used to investigate dynamics for a wider range of conditions
A parameter based on breaking‐wave‐driven setup patterns and alongshore currents predicts offshore‐directed flow speeds
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