Notorious as much for its fashion as for its music, the 1960s and 1970s produced provocative fashion trends that reflected the rising wave of gender politics and the sexual revolution. In an era when ...gender stereotypes were questioned and dismantled, and when the feminist and gay rights movements were gaining momentum and a voice, the fashion industry responded in kind. Designers from Paris to Hollywood imagined a future of equality and androgyny. The unisex movement affected all ages, with adult fashions trickling down to school-aged children and clothing for infants. Between 1965 and 1975, girls and women began wearing pants to school; boys enjoyed a brief "peacock revolution," sporting bold colors and patterns; and legal battles were fought over hair style and length. However, with the advent of Diane Von Furstenberg's wrap dress and the launch of Victoria's Secret, by the mid-1980s, unisex styles were nearly completely abandoned. Jo B. Paoletti traces the trajectory of unisex fashion against the backdrop of the popular issues of the day-from contraception access to girls' participation in sports. Combing mass-market catalogs, newspaper and magazine articles, cartoons, and trade publications for signs of the fashion debates, Paoletti provides a multigenerational study of the "white space" between (or beyond) masculine and feminine.
Taking cultural theorist Michel de Certeau’s notion of ‘the everyday’ as a critical starting point, this book considers how fashion shapes and is shaped by everyday life. Looking historically for the ...imprint of fashion within everyday routines such as going to work or shopping, or in leisure activities like dancing, the book identifies the ‘fashion system of the ordinary’, in which clothing has a distinct role in the making of self and identity. Exploring the period from 1890 to 2010, the study is located in London and New York, cities that emerged as socially, ethnically and culturally diverse, as well as increasingly fashionable. The book re-focuses fashion discourse away from well-trodden, power-laden dynamics, towards a re-evaluation of time, memory and above all history, and their relationship to fashion and everyday life. The importance of place and space - and issues of gender, race and social class - provides the broader framework, revealing fashion as both routine and exceptional, and as an increasingly significant part of urban life. By focusing on key themes such as clothing the city, what is worn on the streets, the imagining and performing of multiple identities by dressing up and down, going out and showing off, Fashion and Everyday Life makes a unique contribution to the literature of fashion studies, fashion history, cultural studies and beyond.
This second edition of Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry contains a chronology, an introduction, appendixes, a bibliography. The dictionary section has over 1,400 cross-referenced entries ...on designers, models, couture houses, significant articles of apparel and fabrics, trade unions, and the international trade organizations.
The study of fashion has expanded into a thriving field of inquiry, with researchers utilizing diverse methods from across subject disciplines to explore fashion and dress in wide–ranging contexts. ...With an emphasis on material culture and ethnographic approaches in fashion studies, this groundbreaking volume offers fascinating insights into the complex dynamics of research and fashion. Featuring unique case studies, with interdisciplinary scholars reflecting on their practical research experiences, Fashion Studies provides rich and nuanced perspectives on the use, and mixing and matching of methodological approaches — including object and image based research, the integration of qualitative and quantitative methods and the fluid bridging of theory and practice. Engaging with diverse subjects, from ethnographies of model casting and street–style blogging, wardrobe studies and a material culture analysis of global denim wearing, to Martin Margiela's design and archival methods, Fashion Studies presents complex approaches in a lively and informative manner that will appeal to students of fashion, anthropology, sociology, cultural studies and related fields.
One of the most remarkable aspects pertaining to the legal bans and societal debates on the face veil in Europe is that they rely on assumptions which lack any factual basis. To rectify this, Eva ...Brems researched the experiences of women who wear a face veil in Belgium and brought her research results together with those of colleagues who did the same in four other European countries. Their findings, which are outlined in this volume, move the current discussion on face veil bans forward by providing a much-needed insider perspective. In addition, a number of legal and social science scholars comment on the empirical findings and on the face veil issue more generally.
Fashion is ever-changing, and while some styles mark a dramatic departure from the past, many exhibit subtle differences from year to year that are not always easily identifiable. With overviews of ...each key period and detailed illustrations for each new style, How to Read a Dress is an authoritative visual guide to women's fashion across five centuries. Each entry includes annotated color images of historical garments, outlining important features and highlighting how styles have developed over time, whether in shape, fabric choice, trimming, or undergarments. Readers will learn how garments were constructed and where their inspiration stemmed from at key points in history – as well as how dresses have varied in type, cut, detailing and popularity according to the occasion and the class, age and social status of the wearer. This lavishly illustrated book is the ideal tool for anyone who has ever wanted to know their cartridge pleats from their Récamier ruffles. Equipping the reader with all the information they need to 'read' a dress, this is the ultimate guide for students, researchers, and anyone interested in historical fashion.
In the park he watches more of them sitting on benches, watching their charges in the playground. Don't turn their heads, chat with one another, read magazines or talk on mobile phones. Or all of ...them, some sort of instantaneous communication rousing them to action?
The traditional costumes worn by people in the Andes-women's
woolen skirts, men's ponchos, woven belts, and white felt
hats-instantly identify them as natives of the region and serve as
revealing ...markers of ethnicity, social class, gender, age, and so
on. Because costume expresses so much, scholars study it to learn
how the indigenous people of the Andes have identified themselves
over time, as well as how others have identified and influenced
them.
Costume and History in Highland Ecuador assembles for
the first time for any Andean country the evidence for indigenous
costume from the entire chronological range of prehistory and
history. The contributors glean a remarkable amount of information
from pre-Hispanic ceramics and textile tools, archaeological
textiles from the Inca empire in Peru, written accounts from the
colonial period, nineteenth-century European-style pictorial
representations, and twentieth-century textiles in museum
collections. Their findings reveal that several garments introduced
by the Incas, including men's tunics and women's wrapped dresses,
shawls, and belts, had a remarkable longevity. They also
demonstrate that the hybrid poncho from Chile and the rebozo from
Mexico diffused in South America during the colonial period, and
that the development of the rebozo in particular was more
interesting and complex than has previously been suggested. The
adoption of Spanish garments such as the pollera (skirt)
and man's shirt were also less straightforward and of more recent
vintage than might be expected.
Guodong Zhang 1 and Peilin Jiang 2 and Kazuyuki Matsumoto 1 and Minoru Yoshida 1 and Kenji Kita 1 1, Faculty of Engineering, Tokushima University, Tokushima 7708506, Japan, tokushima-u.ac.jp 2, Xian ...Jiao Tong University, No. 28, Xianning West Road, Xian, China, xjtu.edu.cn Received Jul 26, 2017; Accepted Aug 9, 2017 This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. In the article titled “Reidentification of Persons Using Clothing Features in Real-Life Video” 1, there was an error in the description of formula (12), which should be corrected as follows: “In formula (12), A is the number of correct relevant retrieval examples, and B is the number of irrelevant video retrieval examples.”
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