Purpose> This paper aims to select a type of mordant from aluminium salts, namely, aluminium sulphate, aluminium nitrate and polyaluminium chloride (PAC) with the lowest potential for contamination ...so that their use will minimise pollution from natural dye waste. It also aims to determine the pollution value of natural dye immersion waste from jackfruit wood extract, secang wood, mangsi fruit and several synthetic dyes, to identify potential environmental pollution. Design/methodology/approach> Dyeing with natural dyes was performed by exhaust at room temperature by the pre-mordant method, while with synthetic dyes it was performed by exhaust according to the dyeing procedure (reactive, vat and naphthol). The groundwater, mordant solutions, natural dye extract and the waste-water from the natural and synthetic dyes were then tested to determine their biological oxygen demand (BOD5), chemical oxygen demand (COD), total suspended solids (TSS), pH, Al and heavy metal contents such as chromium (Cr), copper (Cu), cadmium (Cd), nickel (Ni), cobalt (Co) and lead (Pb). Findings> Aluminium sulphate had the lowest pollution load while PAC had the highest, as aluminium sulphate had a higher BOD5/COD ratio (0.62–0.67) than aluminium nitrate (0.56–0.64) or PAC (0.44–0.54). The dyeing waste from the three natural dyes contained an acidic pH of 3.5–4.2, Al of 75.280–621.34 mg/L, Cr of 0.154–0.215 mg/L and Cu of 0.035–0.072 mg/L. The values of TSS, COD and BOD5 are higher than the quality standards of the waste but are environmentally friendly because the ratio of the BOD5/COD values from the waste ranges from 0.44–0.67. Research limitations/implications> The findings indicate that as a mordant, aluminium sulphate results in lower pollution loads than aluminium nitrate and PAC. However, all three mordants contain Cr and Cu, albeit in negligible concentrations. Therefore, it is recommended that future studies strive to identify a mordant that has lower pollution loads and does not contain metals but can increase dyeing results to satisfy consumer requirements. It is the hope that, with the discovery of a new mordant, natural dyes will be the solution for the heavy metal pollution caused by synthetic dyes. Practical implications> The use of environmentally-friendly mordants and natural dyes in the Indonesian textile and batik industry will give rise to superior quality eco-textile and eco-batik products. Such environmentally-friendly and high-quality products will not only increase competition and consumer interest but increase product sales as well which will, in turn, increase incomes and the economy. Additionally, an increase in the use of natural dyes by the textile and batik industry will serve as additional income to the communities and farmers from which the raw materials for the natural dyes are sourced thereby creating jobs and increasing welfare. Social implications> As environmentally-friendly mordants and natural dyes replace the hazardous and toxic materials currently used in the textile and batik industry, it guarantees the health and safety of its consumers and workers. Furthermore, as the waste-water produced is biodegradable, it reduces river and groundwater pollution. It is, therefore, expected that this information will not only lead to a shift in attitude within the textile and batik industries but the adoption of environmentally-friendly materials, for the sake of the environment, as well as the development of eco-textile and eco-batik products. Originality/value> Aluminium sulphate is a mordant type of aluminium salt with a lower potential for contamination than aluminium nitrate and PAC. However, PAC has been discovered to be a mordant for natural dyes, as has the fruit of the mangsi shrub, which has recently been discovered as a naturally occurring blue dye.
Historical textiles, which are an invaluable part of the cultural material heritage, and the materials used in their production bear witness to the social past. Although a textile object was ...originally produced out of necessity, later it became a symbol of magnificence, power, and might. The most important basic elements that contribute to these properties are the materials used in its production, among which silk fiber, and metallic threads containing gold and silver are the leading ones. In addition to the aging behavior of textile objects due to their organic structure, the deterioration process is accelerated due to various factors such as use, environmental factors, mismanagement, inappropriate storage and display conditions, incorrect restoration-conservation practices, natural disasters, etc. In this study, a total of 7 metallic threaded textile works dated between the 16 and 19 centuries and used by the Ottoman Palace dynasty in the textile collection of the Topkapı Palace Museum (TPM) were examined. In this context, visual evaluation/documentation, color measurement, technical analysis, dyestuff analysis, elemental composition, and corrosion products were determined in the historical textiles. In this study, the following analytical instruments were used for the analyses: a CIEL*a*b* spectrophotometer, an optical microscope (OM), high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC–PDA), scanning electron microscopy with energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM–EDX). Thanks to this study, it was aimed to document the palace fabrics containing silk and metallic yarn used in the Ottoman period, to characterize the materials they contain, to determine the production method, and to determine of the deterioration products that occur over time. According to the results obtained from the analyses, insect-origin dyestuffs in red, pink, and purple were used. When the fabrics of the sixteenth century and the fabrics of the nineteenth century were compared, it was determined that there was a decrease in the quality of weaving. In addition, it was determined that the fiber in the metallic yarn core in the textile object dated to the end of the 19th/beginning of the twentieth century was produced by using cotton instead of silk, and also the thickness of the metal strip and the wrapping density were decreased. No significant difference was detected in the chemical composition of the strips in the metallic yarns found in the examined historical textiles, but only the silver element was detected in the metal strip, although the metallic yarn core in the last period textile object was yellow in color. All these results showed that there was a difference between the sixteenth-century textiles of the rise of the Ottoman Empire and the nineteenth-century textiles of the dissolution period. This difference is especially evident in the quality of the weaving, the density of the materials used, and the chemical composition of the metal strip. In addition, all these analyses will guide textile experts in possible restoration-conservation studies.
Dyestuffs extracted from naturally originated materials are getting popularity in terms of environment-friendly biobased perspective and awareness. The natural colors were imparted into the wool ...fabric surface after extraction from sappan wood plants through applying exhaustion dyeing methods. Besides, three mordants (aluminum potassium sulfate (AlK(SO
4
)
2
, copper sulfate (CuSO
4
), and zinc sulfates (ZnSO
4
·) were used as mordanting materials for better fixation of extracted dyes on wool fabrics. The colored wool fabrics exhibited better color performances especially at optimum conditions (temperature 80°C, time 60 min, and pH 4.0) in terms of CIE lab values (CIE L* a* b*) and color strength (K/S). Moderate colorfastness results were also achieved without any color fading on wool surfaces. The morphological analysis showed that dyed fabrics surfaces are more uniform than undyed fabric. The FTIR (Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy) spectra confirmed the presence of higher absorptions onto dyed fabric, resulting in a better thermal stability property for dyed fabric. Besides, UV protection of the dyed fabric exhibited a higher UPF value than undyed fabric, which denotes that our utilized dye could enhance the functional property of the wool fabric. Satisfactory mechanical properties also further confirmed the successful application potentiality of greenly synthesized natural colorants on wool fabric.
In this research, alkaloid compounds were extracted from the roots and stems of
Berberis vulgaris
using response surface methodology. The experimental design used absorption intensity as the response ...at three levels and four factors. The results showed that the factors of mesh and solvent percentage had more meaningful effects than those of temperature and time. Extractions were performed in an incubator shaker with 90% methanol solvent as optimal. The absorption intensity for the roots and stems of the plant was 1.299 and 0.867, respectively. The extracted dye was used in the fabrication of dye-sensitized solar cells. The surface morphology of the samples was studied using atomic force microscopy. Under optimal conditions, low aggregation between the dye molecules and TiO
2
film decreased the average surface roughness in comparison with the condition in which the dye molecule concentration increased. The solar cell was built using optical electrodes sensitized with the roots and stems of
B. vulgaris
, and the calculated solar cell output under optimal conditions was 0.304 and 0.309, respectively. Electrochemical impedance spectroscopy was used to study the internal resistance of the solar cells, and it was shown that an increase in electron transfer between the dye molecule surface and TiO
2
film decreased solar cell resistance.
Currently, the known possible shades obtained for coloring silk fabrics using enzyme catalysts such as peroxidase are limited to a few shades of brownish tint. For the oxidative dyeing method using ...horseradish peroxidase (HRP) to become common, it must be able to produce a more diverse range of colors; this is a problem that must be solved. The purpose of this study is to obtain various colors by dyeing natural phenolic substrates using HRP in various buffers (acetate, citrate, phosphate buffer) and various pH levels (3 ~ 9). We emphasized color diversity, which was achieved through the exploration of six different natural aromatic compounds: gallic acid (GA), guaiacol (GAC), p-coumalic acid (CA), ferulic acid (FA), catechol (CAC) and caffeic acid (CFA). We also performed a methodological survey of reaction processing parameters. The colored products generated through HRP catalysis were analyzed using UV-vis. The color of the dyed fabrics was analyzed using the CIE L*a*b* color space system. As a result of the experiment, we obtained silk fabrics with various color depths from each buffer system. This suggests that the desired color and tone of dyed silk fabrics can be achieved by adjusting the buffer system and pH value.
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to investigate the possibility of dyeing polyester (PET) fabric with natural dye extracted from annatto seeds using high temperature dyeing method.
...Design/methodology/approach
PET fabric was dyed with annatto extract by varying dyeing parameters (temperature, time, pH and dye concentration) to determine the optimum dyeing conditions. The influences of KAl(SO4)2, FeSO4, gallnut mordants or a commercial UV absorber on colour yield and fastness properties were further studied.
Findings
Optimum results were obtained when the fabric was dyed at 130°C for 30 min in a dyebath containing 15 per cent (owf) annatto dye at pH 6. The dyed fabric had an orange shade and exhibited good to excellent wash, crock, perspiration fastness and fair light fastness. Further dyeing with mordants or UV absorber mostly resulted in lower colour yield and similar fastness properties.
Research limitations/implications
Although the light fastness was slightly improved to moderate level for the sample with UV absorber, a noticeable colour staining on cotton portion of multi-fibre fabric occurred when subjected to standard washing test. Compared to C.I. Disperse Orange 73, the annatto dye exhibited comparable colour fastness but had inferior light fastness when dyed at approximately the same colour strength.
Originality/value
Natural colourants from annatto seeds can be used to dye PET fabric at high temperature without mordants, yielding deep orange shade and satisfactory fastness properties. This study provides a promising application to reduce the environmental impact of synthetic dyes.
The Brazilian Legal Amazon region is divided into at least 155 ethnic groups and has the largest concentration of Indigenous people globally. It represents one of the most extraordinary levels of ...human, cultural, and artistic diversity, but its material culture is one of the least well-studied. This is especially true in technical art history and conservation science, largely due to (1) the limited international awareness of the richness of materials and techniques used by these Indigenous people and (2) the limitations of knowledge access for many scientists to literature usually published in Portuguese within social sciences and humanities. One result is that these arts are marginalized within technical art history, conservation, and conservation science. To address this knowledge gap, the authors explore 70 materials—among them pigments, dyes, binding media, and varnishes—used for paint production and coloring processes, including syntheses. The authors facilitate research possibilities within technical art history, conservation, and conservation science by presenting data from historical texts from the 18th and 19th centuries and more recent scientific literature. The work aims to build a more global, inclusive, and decentralized vision of art history and to create a more pluralistic narrative of Indigenous art history from South America.
This study focuses on the characterization of pigment compounds presence in Sargassum sp. extracts. The ground powder of dry Sargassum sp. was macerated in in methanol solution at 60°C for 48 hours ...in an aluminium foil-wrapped conical flask (to provide the dark environment). The extracted colourant was measured with UV-vis Spectrophotometer and Q-TOF LCMS to determine the compounds presence. The extracted colourant also used to dye pretreated and untreated polyester fabric with poly(amidoamine) dendrimer at different concentrations with and without mordants. The exhaustion dyeing with the simultaneous mordanting procedure was carried at 85°C for 60 minutes. The colorimetric properties of the dyed fabrics were then analysed. The results showed that the pigment compounds presence in Sargassum sp. extracts is fucoxanthin and chlorophyll. The application of dendrimer improved K/S values of the dyed fabric. Thus, Sargassum sp. extract is suitable to be used as natural dyes for textile dyeing.
Desorption electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (DESI-MS) is an ambient mass spectrometry technique that shows great potential for the analysis of fragile heritage objects in situ. This article ...focuses on the application of a recently built DESI source to characterize natural dyestuffs in historical textiles and a presentation of initial imaging experiments. Optimization of the instrumental settings, geometrical parameters, and solvent system on the DESI-MS analysis was conducted on rhodamine B samples. Some variables, including an increased flow rate, a narrower range of optimized geometrical variables and a solvent system without additives, were applicable to both early synthetic and natural dyes. Direct dye turmeric (Curcuma longa L.) could be reliably analyzed on both silk and wool, as could anthraquinone standards without mordanting. These preliminary results suggest that the dye application process (direct, mordant, vat) has a large impact on the ionization efficiency of DESI-MS. Imaging trials highlighted the suitability of DESI-MS for the analysis of patterned textiles that are difficult to sample, such as calico fabrics, or other currently inaccessible objects.
Terminalia chebula, Rubia tinctorum and Biancaea sappan are used here as sensitizers on TiO2 hollow-sphere. Anatase-rutile TiO2 hollow-spheres were synthesized using carbon spheres template assisted ...method. Structural, shape and purity of the prepared TiO2 hollow-spheres are confirmed through XRD, SEM measurements. Absorbance spectra are used to analyze the spectral response of the sensitizers. From the J-V measurements, it is found that Terminalia chebula shows a better performance of open circuit voltage (VOC) ∼ 0.47 V, short circuit current (JSC) ∼ 0.11 mA/cm2 and fill factor 40% compared to all others. The charge transfer resistance and life-time are investigated through Nyquist and Bode plots.
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