Over the past 40 years, Japanese designers have led the way in aligning fashion with art and ideology, as well as addressing identity and social politics through dress. They have demonstrated that ...both creative and commercial enterprise is possible in today's international fashion industry, and have refused to compromise their ideals, remaining autonomous and independent in their design, business affairs and distribution methods. The inspirational Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo have gained worldwide respect and admiration and have influenced a generation of designers and artists alike. Based on twelve years of research, this book provides a richly detailed and uniquely comprehensive view of the work of these three key designers. It outlines their major contributions and the subsequent impact that their work has had upon the next generation of fashion and textile designers around the world. Designers discussed include: Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Naoki Takizawa, Dai Fujiwara, Junya Watanabe, Tao Kurihara, Jun Takahashi, Yoshiki Hishinuma, Junichi Arai, Reiko Sudo & the Nuno Corporation, Makiko Minagawa, Hiroshi Matsushita, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Walter Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Helmut Lang.
In many English as a Second Language (ESL) programs across the United States classroom teachers, ESL specialists, and bilingual paraprofessional share responsibility for teaching English language ...learners. Expectations of 'shared responsibility' are constructed and negotiated through local discourses. This study explores how the roles and responsibilities of classroom teachers, the ESL department, and students are constructed and reproduced in a site-based inquiry group's conversation. The inquiry team's goal of improving instructional practices for English language learners is constructed through and constrained by local discourses. Through discourse analysis (
Edley 2001
) I explore the available subject positions and ideological assumptions within local discourses. The three dominant, local discourses normalize particular roles and responsibilities with significant consequences for the education of English language learners. I propose that professional development can engage and manipulate the ideological tensions between existing discourses to promote instructional and cultural changes, making available new expectations of shared responsibility.
As districts across the nation see increasing numbers of English learners, there is an increased interest in supporting classroom teachers to provide quality instruction for English learners. The ...purpose of this study was to critically analyze the implementation and negotiation of a district's ESL policy that attempted to increase mainstream classroom teachers' capacity for teaching English learners through site-based coaching. Using a Hornberger and Johnson's (2007) guidelines for ethnography of language policy to examine the multiple discourses used to construct, interpret and transform the policy across multiple settings. Data collection was guided by the conceptual framework which focuses on the role of the ESL facilitator negotiating discourses across contexts: the district, two school cultures, and in four relationships with classroom teachers. Two research questions guided the study: (1) what are the assumptions and expectations in the ESL facilitator model about teacher learning and instruction and services for English learners? (2) How do varied enactments, interpretations, and assumed responsibilities influence teachers' learning and instruction and services for English learners? Overall findings illuminate the multiple, conflicting discourses that defined the relationship between the ESL facilitator and classroom teacher, expectations for teacher learning, and criteria for ESL instruction and services. The four case studies of facilitation illustrate the varied enactments of the ESL facilitator policy, leading to inequitable educational opportunities for English learners. In an analysis of the findings, I deconstruct the policy's key terms to reveal the discursive binaries used to negotiate and implement the policy. This critical analysis illustrates how certain discourses were reproduced and granted legitimacy, effectively undermining the positive intentions of the policy.