Este trabalho tem o objetivo de investigar a aplicação da ergonomia no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos do vestuário, do ponto de vista dos designers. Para isso, foram realizadas entrevistas ...semiestruturadas com 19 designers. As entrevistas foram gravadas e transcritas para realização de análise de conteúdo, baseada em três categorias: conceito de ergonomia; abordagem da ergonomia na formação acadêmica e na vivência profissional; aplicação da ergonomia no desenvolvimento de produtos. Foi constatado que a maioria dos participantes compreende o conceito de ergonomia e considera que ela é aplicada no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos do vestuário, contudo essa aplicação dá-se de forma intuitiva. Além disso, os participantes entendem que a aplicação da ergonomia e a obtenção de dados antropométricos dos usuários são atividades desenvolvidas apenas pelos modelistas. Acredita-se que é necessário abordar a ergonomia na formação profissional dos designers do vestuário, a fim de tornar essa aplicação sistemática e efetiva, afetando a satisfação dos usuários de forma positiva e, consequentemente, aumentando a competitividade das empresas.
Modern System-on-Chips (SoCs) are highly complex systems specified chiefly using digital clocked logic and implemented in silicon circuitry. The applications served by SoC-based products vary from ...tiny embedded devices to massive supercomputers. A common factor in systems across the scale is that designers require a thorough understanding of component interactions lest they sacrifice unnecessary energy, performance, development time and other important resources. The approach taken in this thesis is via behaviour analysis on key internal signals carrying binary data. Systems with appropriate instrumentation can provide engineers with signals on the workings and interactions of components in state format (e.g. transactionIsInflight ) or event format (e.g. transactionInitiated and transactionCompleted ). Gaining an understanding of a system's runtime behaviour entails uncovering knowledge about key statistics of these signals and, with equal importance, knowledge about the underlying relationships connecting them. Statistical experiments are devised to find which interpretations of the term "correlation" are most useful, and whether individual performance counters can be used effectively for correlation analysis over a single time window. Metrics based on covariance and independence are found to be more useful than those based on sets or geometrical concepts. Individual performance counters are shown to be inadequate for discerning useful correlation information within a single time window; however, the inclusion of at least one pairwise counter enables useful correlation metrics to be calculated. Building upon these results, a hardware design is developed to discover what is required to implement a device for passive on-chip correlation monitoring and data collection. A novel sampling method is developed out of necessity to enable correlation to be detected between signals with a slight but unknown delay, and a novel window function which enables low-cost windowing counters. The correlator device is demonstrated via integration with UltraSoC's commercial toolkit for embedded analytics in a highly complex multi-core system. It is observed that behaviour analysis involves a large amount of data that is difficult to consume using existing tools and techniques (e.g. time-series plots and tables). This is addressed by tackling the problem of how to effectively present large amounts of correlation data in a way which allows a system designer to comprehend the required statistics without being overwhelmed. This work prepares SoC designers for understanding their system's behaviour at a theoretical level via a thorough evaluation of correlation metrics, and at a practical level via an exploration of both implementation in digital logic hardware and novel visualisation techniques to present behaviour.
This is the first book written about Maria Monaci Gallenga (1880-1944), the enigmatic fashion artist and designer marginalized after decades of fortune and fame. The daughter of Ernesto Monaci, the ...illustrious philologist and mentor of Luigi Pirandello, Gallenga was the wife of Pietro Gallenga, a medical scientist related to the Gallenga Stuart family.The text outlines Maria Monaci Gallenga's impact on the world of fashion, contextualizing her work and that of other forgotten fashion designers in the 1920s and 1930s. It sheds light on her cultural impact and idealism as a business entrepreneur in Europe and America promoting Italian art and culture. It also highlights her engagement in social and educational activities after she retired from the world of fashion, and explains the reasons behind her marginalization and disappearance, and the obstacles and constraints she faced during the years of Fascism.The book also considers the influence of the British arts and crafts movement and the vision of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood on her aesthetic vision, and, in turn, investigates Maria Gallenga's influence on late Pre-Raphaelite paintings (Frank Cadogan Cowper) inspired by her designs and fabrics. The discovery of her fabrics and accessories by the Fendi sisters in the collections of the Tirelli House eventually sparked a new interest in her models, now enhanced by digital media.
Practice-Based Design Research provides a companion to masters and PhD programs in design research through practice. The contributors address a range of models and approaches to practice-based ...research, consider relationships between industry and academia, researchers and designers, discuss initiatives to support students and faculty during the research process, and explore how students' experiences of undertaking practice-based research has impacted their future design and research practice. The text is illustrated throughout with case study examples by authors who have set up, taught or undertaken practice-based design research, in a range of national and institutional contexts.
Stylists have become increasingly influential in shaping fashion imagery. They have moved from the backstage, as unrecognised players, to the frontstage of fashion, becoming celebrated for their ...creative work as image makers for magazines, advertising and fashion designers. Yet little is known about the profession, its diverse incarnations and its aesthetic economy. Featuring contributions from leading experts and stylists, this collection is the first to explore the history, meaning and practice of fashion styling through interviews and historic and present-day case studies.Featuring in-depth contributions from prominent fashion scholars, chapters span historical periods, cultural contexts and theoretical frameworks, employing a range of methodologies in the international case studies upon which they're based. Interspersed with interviews with innovative fashion stylists working today, and drawing on examples from advertising, the catwalk and magazines, this book explores the challenges faced by stylists in a fashion system increasingly shaped by commercial pressures and by growing numbers of collections and seasons.Fashion Stylists is an invaluable resource for students and professionals interested in image-making, the representation of style and fashion, entrepreneurship and the history of fashion professionals.
Es conocido que el uso de la aplicación (app) del gimnasio está asociado a la satisfacción de los miembros con la marca. Sin embargo, no se ha demostrado la diferencia en el uso de las aplicaciones ...teniendo en cuenta las distintas características de los miembros. Así, el objetivo de este estudio es analizar si la intención de uso de la app del gimnasio, en el comportamiento de uso efectivo y también en la satisfacción global de los miembros, varía en función del sexo, la edad, la calificación académica y el tiempo de afiliación al gimnasio. Para el análisis de los datos se utilizó el software SmartPLS 3.3.3. La invariabilidad de la medición de los modelos compuestos se comprobó mediante la medición del modelo compuesto en tres pasos (MICOM). Para el análisis multigrupo (AMG), se utilizó la permutación y se compararon los coeficientes de trayectoria de cada grupo. Los resultados de 1403 miembros mostraron que la influencia de las intenciones de comportamiento en la utilización de los miembros y la satisfacción general varía según las características sociodemográficas de los miembros y la duración de la afiliación. Los resultados también revelaron que la influencia de las intenciones de comportamiento tanto en la satisfacción general de los miembros como en el comportamiento de uso es mayor en los hombres, en los miembros más jóvenes, en los que tienen menor nivel académico y en los que llevan menos tiempo inscritos en el gimnasio. Estas conclusiones resultan útiles para que los gestores de los gimnasios puedan definir mejores estrategias de gestión deportiva para lograr la satisfacción de los miembros. Además, este hallazgo proporciona información a los diseñadores de estas aplicaciones, destacando las características que los usuarios valoran más a la hora de utilizarla.
Over the past 40 years, Japanese designers have led the way in aligning fashion with art and ideology, as well as addressing identity and social politics through dress. They have demonstrated that ...both creative and commercial enterprise is possible in today's international fashion industry, and have refused to compromise their ideals, remaining autonomous and independent in their design, business affairs and distribution methods. The inspirational Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo have gained worldwide respect and admiration and have influenced a generation of designers and artists alike. Based on twelve years of research, this book provides a richly detailed and uniquely comprehensive view of the work of these three key designers. It outlines their major contributions and the subsequent impact that their work has had upon the next generation of fashion and textile designers around the world. Designers discussed include: Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Naoki Takizawa, Dai Fujiwara, Junya Watanabe, Tao Kurihara, Jun Takahashi, Yoshiki Hishinuma, Junichi Arai, Reiko Sudo & the Nuno Corporation, Makiko Minagawa, Hiroshi Matsushita, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Walter Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Helmut Lang.
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