The aim of this study was to investigate the damage to cotton fabrics (ticking and damask) caused by stitching with three types of needle point shapes (R, SES and SUK) and four needle sizes (70, 80, ...90 and 100 Nm). Damage to the yarn and the surface area of the hole were investigated. Based on the results, it can be concluded that two types of damage occur during sewing: the needle passes through the warp/weft (it displaces the yarn) and the needle damages the warp/weft. An analysis and comparison of the surface area of the holes was carried out, obtained by a computer program based on microscopic images. The results show greater damage to the yarn at the needle piercing point in the ticking due to higher density, friction and low yarn migration. The largest surface area of the holes was produced when sewing with SUK-designated needles on ticking and damask. When sewing damask, R-designated needles cause the least damage to the piercing point, whereas SES-designated needles give the best results when sewing the ticking. Thread damage was further confirmed by testing the tensile properties of the yarn at the needle piercing points.
The properties of cotton yarn which will be used as the warp were investigated before the weaving process. The results of the breaking forces served to make an empirical and approximated diagram of ...the normal distribution. Yarn tests were performed by yarn passing through a weaving process simulator with electronic force measurement, speed, and the number of wefts. The number of breaks was registered during the yarn test. Measurements were performed simulating different conditions of the weaving process (change in reed density, higher dynamic tensile forces, lower dynamic tensile forces, and shed height changes). Data computer processing gave approximate diagrams of dynamic forces normal distribution under the test conditions, which do not show significance according to the χ2-test. By pairing a diagram of the breaking force and a diagram of one of the conditions in the weaving process, shown in the same line of forces, their intersection or surfaces overlap is expressed. Based on the integration of the intersection area of the breaking forces approximated diagrams and dynamic forces in the weaving process, the value of the intersection area according to the test conditions was obtained. A high degree of correlation was found by correlating the actual number of thread breaks registered at the time of testing and the intersection of areas for the corresponding condition. This makes it possible to predict the number of breaks in the warp threads during the weaving process if the yarn characteristics and the weaving conditions are known.
This article deals with the analysis of metal threads in weaving from historical Croatian textiles, liturgical vestments, and folk costumes from the seventeenth to the twentieth century. The ...independent narrow stripes, wires, and the srma that was formed by a combination of metal thread wrapped around a non-metal textile yarn were collected and analysed. Using physicochemical method scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX), the metal composition and content in the threads were analysed. By cross-sectional analysis of metal threads by the SEM-EDX method, it was determined whether the metal threads were homogeneous, gilded, or silver-plated. The composition and structure of non-metal textile yarns were determined by light microscopy. Metal threads were primarily made of gold, silver, or copper and their alloys, but recently less valuable metals having a similar shine have generally been used. Non-metal textile threads in srma are most often made of silk, cotton, and linen. The aim of this study was to determine which type and composition of metal threads were used in different regions of Croatia, which can serve as a database for the restoration and conservation of valuable historical textiles. Also, according to the composition of metal threads, the technology of production threads can be determined and the temporal and spatial dating of textile objects can be determined approximately.
The weaving process is constantly evolving in terms of productivity, quality, and possibilities of fabrication of different fabric structures and shapes. This article covers some issues that have ...still not been resolved and represents distracting factors in the woven fabrics production. In the development of woven fabric using the CAD technology, it is inevitably a deviation of the virtual image on the computer screen from the woven sample. According to comprehensive industry analyses, the findings of many authors who contributed to the resolution of these problems can be concluded that these problems are still present in the development and production of striped, checkered, and jacquard woven fabrics. In this article, jacquard, multicolor woven fabrics were investigated, with deviations in pattern sizes and shades of color in warp and weft systems compared to virtual simulation on the computer, as well as the tendency of the weft distortion arising from the weaving process leading to the pattern deformation.
The basic requirement on protective textiles is stability and durability of functional properties under application conditions where textiles are exposed to mechanical and chemical influences. The ...aim of this study is the investigation of structural parameters, mechanical and functional properties of fabrics designed for electromagnetic shield applications before and after wet and dry cleaning cycles. Three fabrics were selected, two of them coated with a copper and one with stainless steel woven thread in the weft direction. Measurement of thickness, surface area, dimensions and breaking force of all samples before and after 5 and 10 cycles was done by standard methods. The surface of copper-coated samples before and after 5 and 10 dry and wet cleaning cycles was observed by scanning electron microscopy. Shielding effectiveness (SE) against electromagnetic (EM) non-ionizing microwave radiation was monitored before and after professional care at frequencies of 0.9 GHz; 1.8 GHz; 2.1 GHz and 2.4 GHz. According to the obtained results, the cycles of dry and wet cleaning affect structural parameters, mechanical properties and shielding effectiveness of functional fabrics. The impact of dry and wet cleaning through 10 cycles on SE properties of fabric III (modacryl/cotton with Inox yarn) is less pronounced than on two copper coated fabrics. Changes in dimensions and breaking forces of fabrics have a relatively high degree of correlation.
Key importance and the role of sewn seam in the woven fabric are presented. Fabric properties in the places joined with the sewn seam on which garment durability, applicability, appearance and ...quality depend are highlighted. Seam location is usually the weakest spot on the garment, especially when the great loads are present at these places. Mechanical properties of the sewn fabrics were investigated in different test conditions. The influence of the load on the sewn seam is analyzed in time intervals. Sample with seam have approximately 70% lower breaking properties (breaking force and elongation at break) than the sample without seam. By preloading the seam fabrics with 30%, 50% and 70% of elongation at break, for a 3-h period, the effect on mechanical properties were tested and the differences in pre-stretching intensity were observed. By conducting such test, it is expected that the fabric experience further degradation and that breaking properties further reduce, but the exact opposite occurred (breaking properties, by increasing the preload, increase even more), because of various material properties (structural fabric properties, raw material characteristics, seam characteristics).
The proportion of woven fabrics in the broad field of protective textiles is extremely high. By various procedures (surface treatments, fabric lamination, composite production), fabric properties ...that meet the requirements defined by standards are achieved. However, simultaneously, these procedures cause negative effects in the form of fabric thickness, stiffness, impermeability, non-breathability, and thus, discomfort. Therefore, there are valid and justified reasons to approach the design process of making such woven fabrics using more complex construction solutions—layer interchanging double cloth. In addition, by applying fibres with integrated desired properties and other structural fabric parameters, it is possible to influence the achievement of the properties of multi-purpose multilayer fabrics for protection, which is the aim of this research. The application and combination of aramid and modacrylic/cotton fibres and use of different yarn fineness resulted in different intensities of protection. The correlative values of mentioned parameters and thermal and thermo-physiological properties indicate their strong connection, and thus the effectiveness of the developed woven fabric samples.
This research aimed to test a newly developed 3D fabric for use in a hospital sterilization unit as a packaging material. Two basic properties were tested: the efficiency of the microbial barrier, ...and the bursting strength of the woven fabric, determined with a steel ball. Material deformations caused by bursting are common in medical sterilization, as a consequence of the packaging of the medical tools needed in surgery. Six 3D-fabric samples were woven from the same warp, with three weft densities and in two different weaves. The weaving conditions and other construction characteristics of the fabrics were the same. To determine the effectiveness of the microbial barrier, bacterial endospores of an apathogenic species of the genus
and
, were used. Mechanical testing of the 3D-woven fabric, i.e., the bursting strength of the fabric using a steel ball, was carried out according to the standard method. The results showed the exceptional puncture strength of the woven fabrics and their formation of an effective microbial barrier, i.e., complete impermeability to microorganisms in five samples, which is the main condition for possible use as a packaging material in medical sterilization. Sample 3tp did not provide an effective microbial barrier and did not meet the basic requirements for use in medical sterilization.
The goal of this study was to investigate the influence of structural and constructional parameters of 3D fabric on two of the most significant properties of fabrics for thermal protection—resistance ...to radiation heat and thermophysiological properties. Today’s textile materials provide high thermal protection, but they display poor thermophysiological properties in extreme conditions. Six samples of 3D fabrics were developed using a laboratory weaving machine. The examined samples were made of identical warp, with a total of three different weft densities, and were woven in two different weaves. The conditions of the weaving process and construction were the same. EN ISO 6942:2022 and EN ISO 11092:2014 methods were used to determine the resistance of the samples to thermal radiation and thermophysiological properties. The results showed that the samples that contained folds in their structure with a larger volume of “trapped” air had better thermophysiological properties and better resistance to thermal radiation. The volume of air contained in the 3D structure was used as a thermal insulator and it did not have a negative effect on the thermophysiological properties. The described structure enabled the 3D fabric to have an optimal ratio of thermal protection and comfort, which is of crucial importance for fabrics used to make thermal protective clothing.
The investigation of influential parameters of the starching process on mechanical properties of yarns intended for multifunctional woven fabrics for thermal protective clothing was performed on four ...different yarn samples starched on an innovative starching machine, adapted to industrial starching conditions. The starching was conducted with two different processes with different starch mass concentrations: the standard starching process and a newer starching process (with yarn prewetting). Based on the results obtained, it can be concluded that starching positively affects all the properties of tested samples and that the increase of starch mass concentration is not accompanied by the improvement of those yarn properties. Synthetic polymer fibers that achieve satisfactory yarn strength need to be starched with lower starch mass concentrations in order to retain the breaking properties and to be protected from abrasion and static electricity, which occurs during the weaving process. The yarn prewetting starching process shows significantly better results than the standard starching process, especially for aramid yarns, where abrasion resistance increased from 42 to 135%. Therefore, we can conclude that the goal of starching such yarns is aimed at increasing the wear resistance. Linear regressions and correlations between the values of breaking properties and abrasion resistance obtained by the testing and their values that were estimated by the analysis show a high correlation coefficient.
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