This book advises the reader from an analytical chemistry perspective on the choice of suitable analytical methods for production monitoring and quality control of cosmetic products. This book will ...enable people working in the cosmetic industry or in research laboratories to become familiar with the main legislative and analytical literature on this subject and learn about and choose suitable analytical procedures for production monitoring and control of cosmetic products, according to their composition. The first section of the book covers various definitions and concepts relating to cosmetic products, current legislation in different countries and specific legislation on ingredients. The central body of the book addresses analytical methods for monitoring and quality control of cosmetic products with the fundamental objective being to enable reader's access to scientific reviews carried out by experts in analytical chemistry. The final section contains a small review of the alternative methods to using animals for cosmetic product evaluation. This book will benefit scientists, technologists, students, practitioners, consultants, etc.
Summary
Collagen is a fibrillar protein that conforms the conjunctive and connective tissues in the human body, essentially skin, joints, and bones. This molecule is one of the most abundant in many ...of the living organisms due to its connective role in biological structures. Due to its abundance, strength and its directly proportional relation with skin aging, collagen has gained great interest in the cosmetic industry. It has been established that the collagen fibers are damaged with the pass of time, losing thickness and strength which has been strongly related with skin aging phenomena Colágeno para todo. 60 y más. 2016. http://www.revista60ymas.es/InterPresent1/groups/revistas/documents/binario/ses330informe.pdf.. As a solution, the cosmetic industry incorporated collagen as an ingredient of different treatments to enhance the user youth and well‐being, and some common presentations are creams, nutritional supplement for bone and cartilage regeneration, vascular and cardiac reconstruction, skin replacement, and augmentation of soft skin among others J App Pharm Sci. 2015;5:123‐127. Nowadays, the biomolecule can be obtained by extraction from natural sources such as plants and animals or by recombinant protein production systems including yeast, bacteria, mammalian cells, insects or plants, or artificial fibrils that mimic collagen characteristics like the artificial polymer commercially named as KOD. Because of its increased use, its market size is valued over USD 6.63 billion by 2025 Collagen Market By Source (Bovine, Porcine, Poultry, Marine), Product (Gelatin, Hydrolyzed Collagen), Application (Food & Beverages, Healthcare, Cosmetics), By Region, And Segment Forecasts, 2014 – 2025. Grand View Research. http://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/collagen-market. Published 2017.. Nevertheless, there has been little effort on identifying which collagen types are the most suitable for cosmetic purposes, for which the present review will try to enlighten in a general scope this unattended matter.
The EU Directive 2010/63/EU on the protection of animals used for scientific purposes and other EU regulations, such as REACH and the Cosmetic Products Regulation advocate for a change in the way ...toxicity testing is conducted. Whilst the Cosmetic Products Regulation bans animal testing altogether, REACH aims for a progressive shift from in vivo testing towards quantitative in vitro and computational approaches. Several endpoints can already be addressed using non-animal approaches including skin corrosion and irritation, serious eye damage and irritation, skin sensitisation, and mutagenicity and genotoxicity. However, for systemic effects such as acute toxicity, repeated dose toxicity and reproductive and developmental toxicity, evaluation of chemicals under REACH still heavily relies on animal tests. Here we summarise current EU regulatory requirements for the human health assessment of chemicals under REACH and the Cosmetic Products Regulation, considering the more critical endpoints and identifying the main challenges in introducing alternative methods into regulatory testing practice. This supports a recent initiative taken by the International Cooperation on Alternative Test Methods (ICATM) to summarise current regulatory requirements specific for the assessment of chemicals and cosmetic products for several human health-related endpoints, with the aim of comparing different jurisdictions and coordinating the promotion and ultimately the implementation of non-animal approaches worldwide. Recent initiatives undertaken at European level to promote the 3Rs and the use of alternative methods in current regulatory practice are also discussed.
Synopsis Objective To understand formaldehyde residue in cosmetics, an investigation on formaldehyde release from eight preservatives (methenamine - MA, paraformaldehyde - PF, ...poly(p-toluenesulfonamide-co-formaldehyde) -PTSAF, quaternium-15 - QU, imidazolidinyl urea - IU, diazolidinyl urea - DU, dimethyloldimethyl hydantoin - DMDM and bronopol - BP) under various conditions was performed. Methods The concentration of released formaldehyde was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection after derivatization with 2,4-dinitrophenylhydrazine. Results The amounts of formaldehyde release were in the order of PF > DU > DMDM asymptotically = QU asymptotically = IU > MA > BP > PTSAF. The releasing amounts of formaldehyde were the highest in the presence of aqueous matrices for the releasers except QU and IU, and the releasing effect was also relative to pH. More formaldehyde was released with longer storage time and higher temperature. Furthermore, all preservatives in cosmetic matrices released fewer amounts of formaldehyde than in pure aqueous or organic matrices, and the formaldehyde-releasing amounts were also cosmetic specific. Conclusion Formaldehyde release was dependent on the matrix, pH, time and mainly temperature, and the releasing effect was also cosmetic specific. Résumé Objectif Pour comprendre les résidus de formaldéhyde dans les produits cosmétiques, une étude du dégagement de formaldéhyde de huit conservateurs (méthénamine -MA, paraformaldéhyde -PF, poly (p-toluènesulfonamide-co-formaldéhyde) -PTSAF, quaternium-15 -QU, imidazolidinylurée -IU, diazolidinylurée -DU, dimethyloldimethyl -DMDM hydantoïne et bronopol -BP) dans diverses conditions a été réalisée. Methodes La concentration de formaldéhyde libéré a été déterminée par Chromatographie liquide à haute performance avec détection à réseau de photodiodes après dérivatisation avec du 2,4-dinitrophénylhydrazine. Résultats Les taux de dégagement de formaldéhyde étaient dans l'ordre décroissant PF> DU> DMDM asymptotically = UI> MA asymptotically = QU> BP> PTSAF. Les taux de libération de formaldéhyde étaient les plus élevés en présence de matrices aqueuses pour les libérateurs sauf QU et IU et l'effet de libération était également variables selon le pH. Plus de formaldéhyde a été libéré plus la durée du temps de stockage et la température étaient élevées. En outre, tous les conservateurs dans les matrices cosmétiques libéraient moins de quantités de formaldéhyde que dans les matrices aqueuses ou organiques purs et les taux de libération de formaldéhyde étaient également spécifique pour chaque cosmétique. Conclusion Le dégagement de formaldéhyde était dépendant de la matrice, du pH, du temps de stockage et surtout de la température et l'effet de libération était aussi spécifique de la formulation cosmétique
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