Provider: - Institution: - Data provided by Europeana Collections- In the past decades, the textile market was characterized by a wide range application of man-made fibres. The low-cost and efficient ...production of these fibres seems to be the main criterion. In addition to economics, some of desired garment properties such as the shape stability, durability and easy care could be easily achieved by introducing man-made fibres into clothing textile materials. However, growing demands for the comfort clothing and environmentally friendly fibres caused the increase of production and application of natural fibres. The hemp fibres production is characterized by sharp ups and downs, from the extensively growing to their decline in the past decades. Thanks to the unique hemp fibre properties and ecological benefits hemp is reintroduced as a potential fibre source for the health human application. Specific hemp-textile characteristics, as their excellent hygienic, thermal, antielectrostatic and ultraviolet radiation-resistant properties determine hemp fabrics as physiological friendly textiles. However, hemp fibres have some limitations concerned with the tactile comfort and subsequent textile transformation. Hemp by nature is coarse and does not have much elasticity. In order to introduce hemp to the area of high quality comfort clothing, which at the moment is governed by cotton, viscose and wool, the properties of hemp fibres must be improved to match to those of traditionally comfort fibres (cotton, viscose and wool). Actual investigations refer to the usage of modified hemp fibres, by special fibre elementarization methods (cottonization), in blends with cotton, wool or synthetic fibres, so that they can be processed on cotton or wool spinning systems to high quality yarns. The aim of this research was to investigate the possibilities of producing comfort textile fabrics incorporating both hemp and other fibres by assembling or folding (ply-twisting) of homogeneous yarns. The techniques applied for a combination of single yarns (assembling and folding) made it possible not only to combine different fibre properties, but to provide the complex yarn differing from single components because of the changes in fibres packing density and orientation. In case of an introduction of different fibre content single components, differing in basic structure themselves, the folded hybrid yarns with the unique properties were obtained. In order to access the influence of yarn structure on comfort properties, plain knitted fabrics were produced from two-assembled hemp, viscose and three variants of cotton yarns differing in twist level, all having the same nominal linear density. In such a way nine plain knitted fabrics were obtained. The tenth variant was produced from twofolded hemp yarn. From the folded hemp based yarns two series of rib (1×1) knitted fabrics were produced differing in stitch density, designed as N (lower) and V (high) density. Mechanical, relaxation and surface properties of the yarns, which were expected to have an influence on comfort properties of the knitted fabrics, were tested. Physical properties of the knitted fabrics the most responsible for the comfort perception were included in this study. In order to evaluate thermal comfort of the knits, basic transport properties: thermal properties, air permeability and water vapour permeability, were investigated. Tactile comfort of the knits was assessed through the mechanical (compression, tensile) and surface properties investigated. In this investigation hemp based knitted fabrics exhibited comfort properties at a comparable level to cotton and viscose knitted fabric. The transport properties of the pure hemp knitted fabrics, related to thermal comfort, shown to be in the range of the values of the cotton and viscose knit. Among the plain knitted fabrics the pure hemp knits were characterized by the highest air permeability, while the pure hemp rib knitted fabric exhibited the best thermal properties. Satisfactory mechanical and surface properties of hemp based knitted fabrics from the aspect of tactile comfort were demonstrated. The results indicated that both the constituent fibre properties and the yarn structure were of a great importance concerning thermal comfort through the way in which fibres were packed into a yarn. A statistical analysis confirmed that the transport properties of the knitted fabrics were influenced to a great extent by the core and surface geometry of the yarns, which were, in turn, determined by the fibre type, twist level and spinning technique applied. As a result of the fibre type as well as the intrinsic characteristics of the component yarns, the specific structure of the hybrid yarns influenced the thermal comfort through the regulation of the free open surface (macro-porosity) of the knitted fabrics. The hairiness of yarn and the inter-fibre mobility, which were influenced by the primary or secondary twist level in the first place, proved to be highly related to the tactile comfort of the knitted fabrics. These yarn parameters showed to have a great influence on compression behaviour and geometrical roughness of the knits. In addition, the friction behaviour of the knitted fabrics was dependent on yarn twist. The investigation conducted confirmed that both assembling and folding technique have a great potential to guide the comfort properties of hemp based knitted fabrics in a desired direction. The results obtained enable the basis for a further investigation of the possibility of the spinning technology from the aspect of comfort.- Tekstilno tržište se poslednjih decenija odlikuje širokom zastupljenošću sintetičkih vlakana, pre svega zbog jeftinije i produktivnije proizvodnje. Pored ekonomskih razloga, tome doprinosi i činjenica da prisustvo sintetičkih vlakana u odevnom tekstilnom materijalu poboljšava stabilnost dimenzija i trajnost i olakšava negu i održavanje odevnih predmeta. Međutim, povećani zahtevi za komfornom odećom, kao i ekološki prihvatljivim tekstilnim vlaknima, izazvali su porast proizvodnje i primene prirodnih vlakana. Proizvodnja i primena vlakana konoplje odlikuje se naglim usponima i padovima, počev od perioda intenzivnog gajenja pa do gotovo potpunog prekida poslednjih decenija. Jedinstvena svojstva i ekološke prednosti vlakana konoplje reafirmišu ih za primenu u oblasti tkz. „zdravog“ odevnog tekstila. Specifična tekstilna svojstva konoplje, kao što su odlična higijenska, toplotna, električna i UV zaštitna svojstva, svrstavaju tekstilne materijale od konoplje u grupu tekstila sa dobrim fiziološkim predispozicijama. Ipak, izvesne slabosti vlakana konoplje, koja se vezuju za tvrdi opip i malu elastičnost, predstavljaju ograničenja sa aspekta taktilnog komfora i dalje tekstilne transformacije. Da bi se konoplja uvela u oblast visoko kvalitetnog komfornog odevnog tekstila, u kojoj sada dominiraju pamuk, viskoza i vuna, neophodno je da se svojstva vlakana konoplje modifikuju i usklade sa svojstvima tradicionalnih komfornih vlakana (pamuk, viskoza i vuna). Aktuelna istraživanja se bave mogućnostima upotrebe vlakana konoplje, modifikovanih specijalnim metodama elementarizacije (kotonizovanje), u mešavinama sa pamukom, vunom ili sintetičkim vlaknima, kako bi se upotrebom sistema predenja pamuka ili vune proizvele visoko kvalitetne pređe. Cilj ovog istraživanja bio je ispitivanje mogućnosti dobijanja komfornih tekstilnih materijala mešanjem vlakana konoplje sa drugim vlaknima dubliranjem ili končanjem homogenih pređa. Primenjene tehnike kombinovanja jednožičnih pređa omogućile su ne samo kombinovanje vlakana različitih svojstava, već i dobijanje kompleksnih pređa čija su se svojstva, usled promena u gustini pakovanja i orijentaciji vlakana, razlikovala od svojstava jednožičnih komponenata. Končanjem jednožičnih pređa različitog sirovinskog sastava i strukture dobijene su hibridne pređe jedinstvenih svojstava. Radi ispitivanja uticaja strukture pređe na svojstva komfora, od dubliranih pređa od konoplje, viskozne i tri različito upredene varijante pamučnih pređa, pri čemu su sve imale istu nominalnu finoću, proizvedeno je devet varijanti DL pletenina. Deseta varijanta pletenine izrađena je od končane dvožične pređe od konoplje. Od končanih pređa na bazi konoplje proizvedene su dve serije DD (1×1) pletenina, koje su se odlikovale manjom (N)i većom (V) gustinom petlji. Ispitivana su mehanička, relaksaciona i površinska svojstva pređa za koja se očekivalo da mogu imati uticaja na komfor pletenina, kao i fizička svojstva pletenina koja su u najvećoj meri odgovorna za percepciju komfora. Sposobnost pletenina da prenose toplotu, vazduh i vodenu paru poslužila je za ocenu toplotnog komfora pletenina. Uvid u taktilni komfor pletenina omogućen je ispitivanjem mehaničkih- All metadata published by Europeana are available free of restriction under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication. However, Europeana requests that you actively acknowledge and give attribution to all metadata sources including Europeana
