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  • Block pattern design system...
    Kulińska, Maria; Abtew, Mulat A; Bruniaux, Pascal; Zeng, Xianyi

    Textile research journal, 12/2022, Volume: 92, Issue: 23-24
    Journal Article

    The 2D pattern-making methods which are entirely based on body measurements are widely used and practiced to design garments in today’s digital environment. Such a method is highly criticized due to a lack of consideration for the body's different morphological and anthropometric data. However, such a method would be effective with many precise and repetitive adjustments and with the help of manual expert know-how. For the last few decades, designers have also used a garment designing technique that is carried out directly on a physical mannequin or fashion model, called the draping technique. The current study is devising and implementing a digital garment design technique in the 3D pattern-making process to create and fit the human body morphology in a 3D digital environment. This technique is based on the analysis of 2D pattern-making methods used by model makers. It also highlights the morphological contour and anthropometric links that have been used to develop a similar method in a 3D environment. However, the proposed methods are performed directly on the 3D wearer's morphology as in the manual 3D draping techniques, which avoids morphological interpretation errors. Such a process helps to control the fit of the 3D garment by determining the ease allowance. Besides, the methods integrated a 3D zoning technique to improve the 3D modelling and to ensure the best possible drape and analysis between the garment and the wearer's body. Further work is required to validate the block pattern for general application based on various parameters including fabric, garment style, body position, etc.