The influence of iron ions at concentrations of 0.2, 0.5, and 1.0 g/L on optical brighteners of the groups stilbene and biphenyl in solution and on cotton fabric was investigated. Both groups of ...optical brighteners are intended for detergent formulations. The influence of iron ions was studied by absorption and fluorescence spectra in solution and by whiteness degree, identifying color differences using CIEL*a*b* coordinates and Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) of cotton fabrics. The obtained results in solutions and cotton fabrics showed different behavior of optical brighteners stilbene and biphenyl in the presence of iron. Stilbene compounds with metal ions produced new species capable of absorbing in the UV-B region of the spectrum. A biphenyl compound in combination with iron had no effect on the absorption properties. Both optical brighteners were influenced by iron ions in the sense of fluorescence quenching. The influence of iron ions in single- and two-bath treatments of cotton fabrics after one cycle on whiteness degree and UPF was negligible.
Textile metal threads were used to decorate historical Croatian textiles. There are three basic types of metal threads usually used on historical textiles in Croatia. These are narrow stripes, wires, ...and combined metal textile yarn called "srma", made of metal thread spirally wrapped around the nonmetal textile yarn. Textile yarns were made of silk, linen, wool, or cotton. Metal threads were primarily made of gold, silver, and copper, and different alloys of these metals or threads are layered in the structure. Analysis of metal threads with three different methods was made and the most adequate method for the analysis of metal threads from historical textiles was established. Metal thread analysis was performed with scanning electron microscopy with an energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDX), which was determined to be the most suitable for the analysis of historical textiles if cross-section analysis of metal threads is also performed. Textile threads from combined metal textile threads were analysed with a light microscope. This information of the metal threads' content and structure as well as the composition of textile thread can lead to an understanding of the technology of production threads and also temporal and spatial dating of textile objects which is helpful to conservators and restorers of valuable historical textiles.
This article deals with the analysis of metal threads in weaving from historical Croatian textiles, liturgical vestments, and folk costumes from the seventeenth to the twentieth century. The ...independent narrow stripes, wires, and the srma that was formed by a combination of metal thread wrapped around a non-metal textile yarn were collected and analysed. Using physicochemical method scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX), the metal composition and content in the threads were analysed. By cross-sectional analysis of metal threads by the SEM-EDX method, it was determined whether the metal threads were homogeneous, gilded, or silver-plated. The composition and structure of non-metal textile yarns were determined by light microscopy. Metal threads were primarily made of gold, silver, or copper and their alloys, but recently less valuable metals having a similar shine have generally been used. Non-metal textile threads in srma are most often made of silk, cotton, and linen. The aim of this study was to determine which type and composition of metal threads were used in different regions of Croatia, which can serve as a database for the restoration and conservation of valuable historical textiles. Also, according to the composition of metal threads, the technology of production threads can be determined and the temporal and spatial dating of textile objects can be determined approximately.
Textile is essential for everyday life in all societies. It is used in clothes for protection and warmth but also to indicate class and position, show wealth and social status. Threads from precious ...metals have also been used in combination with fibres for decoration in order to create luxury fabrics for secular and religious elites.
We performed elemental analysis of 17th to 20th century metal threads from various textile articles of liturgical vestments and festive folk costumes collected in the museums of northern, southern and central Croatian regions.
In order to determine elemental concentrations in threads we performed comparative X-ray Spectroscopy measurements using: (i) Scanning Electron Microscopy with Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy (SEM-EDX) at the Faculty of Textile Technology, (ii) X-ray Fluorescence Spectroscopy (XRF) at the Croatian Conservation Institute and (iii) Particle Induced X-ray Spectroscopy (PIXE) at the Ruđer Bošković Institute Tandem Accelerator Facility using ion micro beam. Rutherford Backscattering Spectroscopy (RBS) was performed as well on selected samples. SEM-EDX investigations of cross-sections along with the surfaces were also performed.
In this work we report and discuss the results obtained by the three X-ray methods and RBS for major (gold, silver, copper) and minor elements on different threads like stripes, wires and “srma” (metal thread wrapped around textile yarn).
The influence of wet cleaning, as a promising process compared to washing, on the physical and chemical properties of functional cotton fabrics with high added value is presented. Fabric ...characterization before and after durable press finishing and after 10 cycles of washing and wet cleaning is made using standard methods – measuring dimensional stability, construction characteristics, crease resistance, tensile properties, swelling properties, appearance with coefficient of friction and geometrical roughness, surface characterization by scanning electron microscopy and electrokinetic potential. It can be seen that wet cleaning, which has been used in practice, together with adequate pretreatment, as a substitute for dry cleaning, can also be successfully implemented as a process to substitute washing, particularly when high-value-added articles are concerned.
Dry cleaning shops are subject to regulations governing environmental protection due to the extensive use of organic solvents which can be toxic, flammable, explosive and harmful to the environment. ...The law regulates permissible exposure limits (PEL) of solvent vapour in the area for persons exposed during full working hours. Protocols for handling chemicals, keeping the register, monitoring the emissions and waste disposal are prescribed as well. Regular periodic training enables workers to acquire the necessary knowledge of the harmful effects of chemicals on the human body, reducing potential risks of adverse consequences caused by unprofessional handling of harmful chemicals.
U prvom razdoblju razvoja kemijskog čišćenja ekologiji se nije pridavala nikakva važnost. Tek krajem 19. stoljeća uvode se benzinski sapuni u benzinska otapala sa svrhom da se poveća vodljivost ...kupelji, smanji elektrostatičko nabijanje čišćenih tekstilija i opasnost od požara, time se dodatno povećao učinak čišćenja. U 20. stoljeću uvode se halogenirana otapala koja nisu zapaljiva, ali se tijekom vremena zbog toksičnosti povlače iz primjene osim perkloretilena. U 60-im godinama počinje jačati ekološka svijest. U 90-im godinama ekologija dobiva primarno značenje. Ostaju u primjeni samo nova netoksična otapala, dok se perkloretilenu nameću strogi uvjeti tako da njegova potrošnja smije maksimalno iznositi 2 % na količinu očišćenih tekstilija.
Patent P20080210A, Formulacija tekućeg deterdženta za strojno pranje kožnih proizvoda koji je priznat 28.2.2011. obuhvatio je sastav formulacije tekućeg deterdženta koji je prilagođen osjetljivosti ...kožnih proizvoda. Specifičnost ove formulacije je kombinacija različitih anionskih i neionskih površinski aktivnih tvari uz aditive koji doprinose postizanju dodane vrijednosti proizvoda u pranju. Deterdžent je primjenjiv u kućanskoj perilici pri niskim temperaturama do 40°C uz smanjen udio mehaničkog djelovanja.
Dat je sažeti pregled izrade i proizvodnje tekstilija na geografskim po- dručjima današnje Hrvatske od pretpovijesti do današnjih dana u pogledu načina rada, korištenih tehnika, tehnologije i ...sirovina, koji su karakteristični za pojedina povijesna razdoblja i geografska područja. U tom su smislu najprije opisane te- meljne značajke rukotvorske izrade tijekom tisućljećima dugog razdoblja u koje- mu je takav način izrade tekstilija bio dominantan. Istaknute su njegove specifič- nosti vezane uz hrvatsko podneblje kao i njegovo značenje kao kulturno-povijesne baštine te je istaknuta potreba njegova očuvanja. U drugom dijelu opisane su karakteristične značajke manufakturnog načina proizvodnje tekstila na području Hrvatske s naglaskom na specifičnosti i razlike u dubrovačkim manufakturama iz
15. i 16. st. i kasnijih manufaktura u 18. i 19. st. koje su pretežito bile razvijene u Banskoj Hrvatskoj, ali i primorju i dalmatinskom zaleđu. Treći dio bavi se prika- zom razvoja hrvatske tekstilne industrije – od njenih početaka nakon raspada Austro-ugarske monarhije, intenzivnog razvoja i ekspanzije u drugoj polovici 20. st. do naglog pada nakon Domovinskog rata i na prijelazu u treći milenij. Poseb- no su istaknute i ukratko opisane odabrane tvornice koje su obilježile zlatno doba hrvatske tekstilne industrije, ostavile trag u pozitivnom nacionalnom gospodar- skom nasljeđu ili uspjele prebroditi krizno razdoblje i opstati do današnjih dana.
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