The main objective of this short overview of the Croatian light cavalrymen experience
in the Thirty Years War (1618–1648) is to discuss the making of the tie (Croatian
kravata, German krawatte, ...French cravate), as a garment and as a linguistic term.
While today the tie is a universal symbol of male fashion, its origins are in Croatian folklore. It deserves a greater attention from historians as well as anyone with interest in this civilisation phenomenon.
Devedesete su godine prošloga stoljeća razdoblje intenzivne konstrukcije simbola hrvatskoga identiteta. Jedan između tih projekata – kreacija priče o hrvatskoj provenijenciji kravate – koju
potpisuje ...privatna neprofitna ustanova nazvana Academia Cravatica – analitički je zanimljiv ne samo zbog priređivanja manje ili više spektakularnih kulturnih događanja nego i zbog vještoga baratanja s ikoničkim postmodernim konceptima fleksibilnih identiteta, koncentričnih krugova i razina pripadnosti, interakcije i miješanja kultura i sl.
U radu su predstavljene odabrane "kravatološke" akcije u organizaciji Academie Cravatice, a potom se kroz povijest širenja, promjena i resemantizacija rupca hrvatskih seljaka analiziraju
mijene kojima je taj predmet bio izložen od 17. stoljeća do danas.
Kroz povijest difuzije, transformacija i resemantizacija rupca hrvatskih seljaka/vojnika mijene su se događale na nekoliko razina. U društvenom smislu, od seljačkog (vojničkog) odjevnog predmeta postao je dijelom građanskog odijela. U prostornom smislu, s relativno uskog zemljopisno definiranog prostora raširio se društvenim prostorom suvremenoga građanstva, koje se zbog globalnosti zemljopisno (teritorijalno) ne može pobliže odrediti. Promotre li se etnonacionalni razmjeri mijene, uočavaju se brojne resemantizacije: od predmeta kao dijela regionalne kulture jedne hrvatske etnije u susretu hrvatskih vojnika sa svojim europskim kolegama postaje nacionalnom oznakom. Potom, preuzimanjem u europske odjevne stilove biva inter-nacionalnim ili trans-nacionalnim kulturnim dobrom u kojemu se susreću i kreoliziraju različite tradicije, htijenja i konteksti. Konačno, od devedesetih godina 20. stoljeća naovamo, posebno nastojanjima Academie Cravatice, u predmet se upisuju nacionalni, hrvatski sadržaji, dakle ponovno se konstruira kao nacionalna oznaka. Istodobno dobiva i inter- i trans-nacionalne sadržaje jer se proglašava simbolom europske, odnosno građanske kulture i znakom nekih temeljnih
civilizacijskih i općeljudskih vrijednosti (ljudskog dostojanstva, slobode i odgovornosti).
Autorica zaključuje da akcije kojima Academia Cravatica promovira svoju filozofiju (a preko nje Potomac d. d. i marku Croata) samo na prvi pogled ispisuju poželjan projekt hrvatskog identiteta (u smislu u kojemu Bauman i Hall govore o identitetu kao o projektu). Međutim, o njima valja govoriti i kritički jer implicitno ili eksplicitno koriste evolucijski, europocentrični i patrijarhalni diskurs.
Provider: - Institution: - Data provided by Europeana Collections- Na fotografii je Kramář, který má na sobě oblek s košilí a kravatou.- Karel Kramář on suit with shirt and tie.- All metadata ...published by Europeana are available free of restriction under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication. However, Europeana requests that you actively acknowledge and give attribution to all metadata sources including Europeana
Provider: - Institution: - Data provided by Europeana Collections- Pracovní fotografie. Vlevo J.S.Kolár, vpravo Karel Lamač.- Kolár (actor) on the left, the second one is Lamač (actor) on a white ...coat.- All metadata published by Europeana are available free of restriction under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication. However, Europeana requests that you actively acknowledge and give attribution to all metadata sources including Europeana
Provider: - Institution: - Data provided by Europeana Collections- Na levé straně fotografie stojí Kudláček, který má na sobě oblek s košilí, kravatou, vestou a na hlavě klobouk. Na pravés traně ...fotografie je Rovenský, který má na sobě kalhoty, košili, sako a na hlavě klobouk. Levou ruku má v kapse kalhot. Uprostřed stojí muž, který si drží pásek u saka.- On the left side of the photo stands Kudláček (actor) on a suit with shirt, tie and waistcoat. Rovenský (actor) on the right side of the photo as a tramp.- All metadata published by Europeana are available free of restriction under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication. However, Europeana requests that you actively acknowledge and give attribution to all metadata sources including Europeana
Provider: - Institution: - Data provided by Europeana Collections- Před oknem stojí Skalská a vedle ní Nový. Ona má na sobě světlou halenku a on pánský oblek s košilí a kravatou.- Věra Skalská ...(actress) as Milada and Oldřich Nový (actor) as Petr Stamati.- All metadata published by Europeana are available free of restriction under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication. However, Europeana requests that you actively acknowledge and give attribution to all metadata sources including Europeana
Provider: - Institution: - Data provided by Europeana Collections- Na posteli sedí Beranský, má na sobě tmavé kalhoty, kšandy, košili a kravatu.- Beranský (actor) on the bed.- All metadata published ...by Europeana are available free of restriction under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication. However, Europeana requests that you actively acknowledge and give attribution to all metadata sources including Europeana
Provider: - Institution: - Data provided by Europeana Collections- Na levé straně fotografie je Košák, který má na sobě oblek s vestou, košilí a kravatou. Naproti němu stojí Rovenský, který má na ...sobě tmavé kalhoty světlou košili. U ní má vyhrnuté rukávy a ruce má v kapsách kalhot.- Rovenský (actor) on a suit with the shirt and tie. Košák (actor) stands opposite him.- All metadata published by Europeana are available free of restriction under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication. However, Europeana requests that you actively acknowledge and give attribution to all metadata sources including Europeana
Provider: - Institution: - Data provided by Europeana Collections- Na levé straně fotografie je Laušmanová, která se opírá o rameno Matějovskému. Ten má na sobě oblek s košilí a kravatou. V náručí ...drží Měšťákovou.- A young woman on the left is Laušmanová (actress). Matějovský (actor) hugs her and holds on his hand Měšťáková (child actress).- All metadata published by Europeana are available free of restriction under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication. However, Europeana requests that you actively acknowledge and give attribution to all metadata sources including Europeana
Provider: - Institution: - Data provided by Europeana Collections- Na levé straně fotografie je Nesvadba, který má na sobě tmavý oblek s košilí, kravatou, klobouk na hlavě a v pravé ruce drží ...deštník. Kolár má na sobě také oblek, pod levou rukou drží deštník a v rukách nějaký předmět.- Nesvatba (actor) on the left side holds umbrella on his right hand, Kolár (actor) opposite.- All metadata published by Europeana are available free of restriction under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication. However, Europeana requests that you actively acknowledge and give attribution to all metadata sources including Europeana
