When a new technology makes people ill, how high does the body count have to be before protectives steps are taken?This disturbing book tells a dark story of hazardous manufacturing, poisonous ...materials, environmental abuses, political machinations, and economics trumping safety concerns. It explores the century-long history of "fake silk," or cellulose viscose, used to produce such products as rayon textiles and tires, cellophane, and everyday kitchen sponges. Paul Blanc uncovers the grim history of a product that crippled and even served a death sentence to many industry workers while also releasing toxic carbon disulfide into the environment.Viscose, an innovative and lucrative product first introduced in the early twentieth century, quickly became a multinational corporate enterprise. Blanc investigates industry practices from the beginning through two highly profitable world wars, the midcentury export of hazardous manufacturing to developing countries, and the current "greenwashing" of viscose as an eco-friendly product. Deeply researched and boldly presented, this book brings to light an industrial hazard whose egregious history ranks with those of asbestos, lead, and mercury.
Lyocell fiber has emerged as an important class of regenerated cellulose that is produced based on the N-methyl morpholine-N-oxide (NMMO) dissolution method, and it has unique properties compared to ...viscose fiber. The NMMO technology provides a simple, resource-conserving, and environmentally friendly method for producing regenerated cellulose fiber. In this paper, the manufacturing process, environmental impact, and product quality of lyocell fiber are reviewed and compared with those of the conventional viscose fiber.
Viscose fiber (VIF) burns easily, bio-based carrageenan fiber (CAF) is inherently flame retardant. Can the addition of carrageenan fibers improve the flame retardant properties of VIF/CAF blended ...materials? In this study, VIF/CAF papers were successfully prepared in a green way without any pollution. The thermal degradation properties and flame retardancy of VIF/CAF papers were tested by thermogravimetric analysis, limiting oxygen index test, flammability test and cone calorimeter test. The results showed that the introduction of carrageenan fibers significantly changed the thermal stability and flame retardancy of VIF/CAF papers. Moreover, the addition of carrageenan fibers obviously increased the mechanical strength of the VIF/CAF papers.
Enhancing the fire-retardant and antibacterial properties of viscose fabric through a simple strategy is crucial and urgent. In this study, an aminoazole-based cyclotriphosphazene (HATA) was designed ...and synthesized through nucleophilic substitution between hexachlorocyclotriphosphazene and 3-amino-1,2,4-triazole. The application of a rapid dipping strategy and the use of 10 wt% HATA aqueous solution significantly increased the limiting oxygen index of the viscose fabric from 19.3 % to 28.4 %. In addition, the HATA-treated fabric exhibited self-extinguishing properties in vertical flame testing. The peak heat release rate of HATA-treated fabric, according to pyrolysis combustion flow calorimetry, significantly decreased by over 83 %. The scanning electron microscope images revealed the original woven fabric structure after burning. The thermogravimetric infrared spectroscopy and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy results confirmed that the introduction HATA in viscose hindered the release of combustible gas and facilitated the formation of a protective char layer. In addition, 10 % HATA-viscose exhibited remarkable antimicrobial properties, achieving 99.96 % and 99.84 % antibacterial rates against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli, respectively. Furthermore, HATA-treated viscose fabric exhibited favorable mechanical performance, whiteness, and air permeability. This research provides a simple and effective flame-retardant and antibacterial treatment strategy for viscose fabric.
This paper reviews studies of the environmental impact of textile reuse and recycling, to provide a summary of the current knowledge and point out areas for further research. Forty-one studies were ...reviewed, whereof 85% deal with recycling and 41% with reuse (27% cover both reuse and recycling). Fibre recycling is the most studied recycling type (57%), followed by polymer/oligomer recycling (37%), monomer recycling (29%), and fabric recycling (14%). Cotton (76%) and polyester (63%) are the most studied materials.
The reviewed publications provide strong support for claims that textile reuse and recycling in general reduce environmental impact compared to incineration and landfilling, and that reuse is more beneficial than recycling. The studies do, however, expose scenarios under which reuse and recycling are not beneficial for certain environmental impacts. For example, as benefits mainly arise due to the avoided production of new products, benefits may not occur in cases with low replacement rates or if the avoided production processes are relatively clean. Also, for reuse, induced customer transport may cause environmental impact that exceeds the benefits of avoided production, unless the use phase is sufficiently extended.
In terms of critical methodological assumptions, authors most often assume that textiles sent to recycling are wastes free of environmental burden, and that reused products and products made from recycled materials replace products made from virgin fibres. Examples of other content mapped in the review are: trends of publications over time, common aims and geographical scopes, commonly included and omitted impact categories, available sources of primary inventory data, knowledge gaps and future research needs. The latter include the need to study cascade systems, to explore the potential of combining various reuse and recycling routes.
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•We reviewed 41 studies of the environmental impact of textile reuse and recycling.•In general, there are environmental benefits with textile reuse and recycling.•Textile reuse leads to greater environmental benefits compared to recycling.•Most benefits come from avoided production, so the replacement rate is a key factor.•We list sources of inventory data, reveal knowledge gaps and suggest research needs.
Herein, we communicate an effective method for pilot-scale preparation of graphene reinforced viscose staple fiber. Via an in-situ polymerization approach, the polyacrylamide (PAM) was firstly ...grafted on the surface of graphene oxide (PAM-GO). It was then reduced by ascorbic acid into the PAM-rGO nanosheets, featuring good dispersibility and compatibility with the viscose matrix. Subsequently, using the viscous process, the viscous/PAM-rGO composite fiber on the pilot scale. When compared to the pure viscous fiber, the tensile strength and Young’'s modulus of the viscose/PAM-rGO composite fiber that loaded with 1.0 wt% PAM-rGO demonstrated a significant by 170% and 314%. Comparing the experimental results and the Halpin-Tsai theoretical simulation indicated that most of the incorporated PAM-rGO nanosheets aligned along the fiber axis direction. It was further evidenced by calculating Herman's orientation factor (f) of the viscous/PAM-rGO fibers. Additionally, strong non-covalent interactions dominated by hydrogen bonding between the cellulose and PAM-rGO were demonstrated by Raman and FTIR analysis. Furthermore, incorporating PAM-rGO into the cellulose matrix has also improved the thermal stability of the composite fiber. Therefore, we assume that this study will open a new pathway for the scale-up preparation of -incorporated multifunctional polymer fibers.
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•Polyacrylamide functionalized graphene (PAM-rGO) was successfully fabricated via an in-situ polymerization method.•The poly(vinyl alcohol)-assisted cellulose sulfonate/ PAM-rGO solution with an excellent spinnability was achieved.•The viscose/PAM-rGO composite fibers with significantly enhanced mechanical properties were produced on the pilot scale.
It is essential for textile manufacturing industries to invent new resources, composites and industrial technologies, which are environmentally acceptable and can fulfill the consumer necessities. ...Therefore, in the recent years, large number of research is focused on optimizing and modifying the fibre manufacturing processes. The recent advances in technology have allowed modifying these processes through various techniques and novel raw materials/additives to manufacture the fibres. Among the various fibre regeneration processes, the NMMO based lyocell process has numerous advantages over conventional rayon fibres and it has great potential to fulfil the environmental and customer requirements. The present review delivers a complete account of all the six types of cellulose regeneration processes namely viscose, cellulose acetate, cuprammonium, LiCl/DMAc as well as lyocell processes based on ionic liquid or NMMO. Additionally, the review considers latest developments with process technology, cellulose swelling and dissolution phenomena, factors affecting the lyocell process and future prospects of the lyocell fibres.
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CS2 and H2S emissions are the most prominent environmental footprint of viscose fibre manufacturing industry and this necessitates periodical assessment of their emission load from this sector. ...Emission factors of CS2 and H2S from viscose fibre manufacturing were determined by conducting in-plant emission assessments in three viscose fibre manufacturing plants (one viscose filament yarn and two viscose staple fibre plants) in India. The CS2 and H2S emission factors were estimated to be 284.03 and 20.9 kg MT-1 (i.e. metric ton or tonne) of viscose fibre (viscose filament yarn or VFY) and 99.64 and 33.15 kg MT-1 of viscose fibre (viscose staple fibre or VSF), respectively. Indian and global CS2 and H2S emission estimates from viscose fibre manufacturing sector were prepared by incorporating these newly developed emission factors. Annual emissions from Indian VSF sector in 2020 were estimated to be 78.32 Gg CS2 and 26.06 Gg H2S while from VFY sector, the same were 15.30 Gg and 1.13 Gg. This signifies an upward revision of the 2001 estimate of 26.8 Gg CS2 emitted from the entire Indian industrial sector, including viscose fibre manufacturing sector. Further, using the newly developed emission factors for VSF and available global viscose fibre production data of 2017, global annual CS2 and H2S emissions were estimated to be 577.9 Gg and 192.3 Gg, respectively, in 2017 that were predominantly contributed by China and India due to their dominant share in global viscose fibre production, followed by Thailand, Indonesia and Austria.
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•Emission factors of CS2 and H2S from viscose fibre manufacturing are developed.•In 2020, Indian viscose staple fibre sector emitted 78.32 Gg CS2 & 26.06 Gg H2S.•In 2020, Indian viscose fibre yarn sector emitted 15.30 Gg CS2 & 1.13 Gg H2S.•In 2017, Global CS2 and H2S emissions were estimated to be 577.9 Gg and 192.3 Gg.•China (65.74%) & India (11.11%) had maximum share in global CS2 & H2S emissions.
Photoluminescent textiles emitted light in ultraviolet (UV)-radiation region has advanced a variety of applications including military and police clothes. The current study reports the preparation of ...photoluminescent viscose fabrics incorporated lanthanide metal-organic framework (Ln-MOF) and their applications for self-cleaning. In situ growth of Ln (Eu3+, Tb3+) MOF into viscose fabrics were achieved using Ln (NO3)3 and 1,2,4,5-benzenetetracarboxylic dianhydride as organic ligand. The in-growth Ln-MOF within fabrics were characterized using X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscope, energy dispersive X-ray, and fluorescence spectroscopy. Under the UV lamb (345 nm), Eu-MOF@viscose fabric and Tb-MOF@viscose fabric visually emitted red and green color, respectively. The excitation-emission spectra showed the spectra for the 5D0→7F0-4 transitions and 5D4→7F5 transitions in case of Eu-MOF and Tb-MOF@viscose fabrics, respectively. The photoluminescent properties of Ln-MOF@viscose fabrics were enhanced after reactive dying process. The self-cleaning functions of Ln-MOF@viscose fabrics were estimated through studying the photo-degradation of Rhodamine B (RhB) dye over the fabrics. After 120 min irradiation time, the photo-degradation of RhB dye was 85–97%, indicating high performance of Ln-MOF@viscose fabric. The materials are promising for advanced applications including protective clothing, textile-based sensors, smart tagging and tickets.
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•Ln (Eu3+, Tb3+)-MOFs were directly grown inside viscose textiles.•Under UV lamb, Eu-MOF@viscose and Tb-MOF@viscose were emitted red and green color, respectively.•After reactive dying, photoluminescent properties of Ln-MOF@viscose fabrics were improved.•Ln-MOF@viscose fabrics exhibited self-cleaning activity and 85–97% of RhB was degraded within 120 min.•Ln-MOF@viscose is promising for protective clothing, textile-based sensors, smart tagging and tickets.
Electronic textiles (E‐textiles) are made using various materials including carbon nanotubes, graphene, and graphene oxide. Among the materials here, e‐textiles are fabricated with reduced graphene ...oxide (rGO) coating on commercial textiles. rGO‐based yarns are prepared for e‐textiles by a simple dip coating method with subsequent non‐toxic reduction. To enhance the conductivity, the rGO yarns are coated with poly(3,4‐ethylene dioxythiophene): poly(styrenesulfonic acid) (PEDOT) followed by electrochemical polymerization of polypyrrole (PPy) as the electromechanically active layer, resulting in textile actuators. The rGO‐based yarn actuators are characterized in terms of both isotonic displacement and isometric developed forces, as well as electron microscopy and resistance measurements. Furthermore, it is demonstrated that both viscose rotor spun (VR) and viscose multifilament (VM) yarns can be used for yarn actuators. The resulting VM‐based yarn actuators exhibit high strain (0.58%) in NaDBS electrolytes. These conducting yarns can also be integrated into textiles and fabrics of various forms to create smart e‐textiles and wearable devices.
A simple graphene oxide, PEDOT:PSS and PPy coated textile‐based soft actuator is presented that shows good electrochemical strain and force. This opens a new perspective in the development of textile yarns with enhanced conductivity and/or actuation with possible applications in the field of smart textile materials.