Objective Rock climbing is a widely performed sport. This prospective single-institution study evaluated the demographics of climbing-related injuries to improve our comprehension of current injury ...characteristics. Methods During a 4-year period, 836 patients with a total of 911 independent climbing injuries were prospectively evaluated using a standard questionnaire and examination protocol. Results Of all injuries, 833 were on the upper extremities, 58 on the lower. Seventeen injuries were Union International des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA) grade 1 injuries, 881 were grade 2, and 13 were grade 3. No higher UIAA graded injuries occurred. Overall, 380 were acute injuries (359 were seen in clinic, 21 were seen through the emergency department), and 531 were overstrain injuries (all seen in clinic). Finger injuries accounted for 52% of all injuries, the shoulder being the second most frequent location. Pulley injuries were the most frequent finger injuries. Of 20 injured young climbers under the age of 15 years, 14 had an epiphyseal fracture (all epiphyseal fractures: mean age 14 years, range 12 to 15 years). Male climbers were significantly older ( P < .05), had more climbing years ( P < .05), and were climbing at a higher climbing level ( P < .01). Older, more experienced climbers had significantly more overstrain injuries than acute injuries ( P < .05). Conclusions When comparing this study with our previous study from 1998 to 2001, there are some notable differences. Although pulley injuries are still the most common climbing injury, there are now more A4 pulley injuries than A2. Shoulder injuries are becoming more common, as are epiphyseal fractures among young climbers. It is important to understand current patterns of climbing injuries so that health providers can target interventions appropriately.
Despite climbing's popularity and an increasing number of female participants, there are limited anthropometric and performance data for this population. This study compares the characteristics of 55 ...experienced female climbers, divided into three categories (lower ADV-L and higher advanced ADV-H and elite ELT) based on self-reported ability. Data on climbing experience, body dimensions, body composition, flexibility, lower and upper-body power and finger strength were assessed. ELT climbers differed significantly from the ADV groups in age (Mean Difference MD = 8.8-9.8 yrs; despite smaller differences in years climbing MD = 1.6-2.4 yrs), greater climbing and hours training per week (MD = 3.0-3.7 h & MD = 0.9-1.6 h, respectively), and greater upper-body power (MD = 12.9-16.6 cm) and finger strength (MD = 51.6-65.4 N). Linear regression analysis showed finger strength and upper body power to be associated with ability, particularly when adjusting for descriptive and anthropometric variables (finger strength R
2
= 53% and 45%; upper-body power R
2
= 60% and 39% for boulder and sport, respectively). The findings support the importance of finger strength and upper-body power; changes in female anthropometric data over the last decade provide insight into the changing nature of the sport.
PDF
