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  • Izbor rimskih koštanih ukos...
    Kovač, Marina

    Osječki zbornik, 05/2010, Letnik: 29, Številka: xx
    Paper

    Archaeological items made of bone have been systematically neglected in literature for years, however this has changed for the last 30 years. The prevailing attitude was that bone items are not appropriate for the chronology observation. This may be partially true if we take into consideration only the utility purpose items that essentially have not changed in the course of the history. The attitude that bone items are inappropriate for creating chronology is unsustainable when it comes to decorative items of everyday use, which can be seen on hairpins whose basic forms and ornaments have changed over centuries from the simpler to more complex ones. This paper deals with Roman bone hairpins from the holdings of the Museum of Slavonia in Osijek making the Collection of bone items donated by the city and citizens of Osijek mostly late in the 19th and the mid 20th centuries. The paper processes the catalogue of 105 hairpins all of which originate, except for Mursa, from unknown sites. Resulting from unsystematic research other data are missing i.e. because all these donated collection items reached the Musem as chance finds. Since their archaeological context is missing, the hairpins can in this paper refer only to a general chronological frame of certain types. The use of wild and domestic animals bones as materials for the making of items of everyday use is very old. In the Roman period a number of items were made of bone since this was an easily available, easy to process and cheap raw material. These were mostly bones of bovine, horses, deer or goats but also antlers, oxen, billy-goat and bovine horns. Bones are easy to process, more durable and resistant than wood, of which only few items have been preserved. Items of every day use as well as decorative items were made of bones. The process of making bone items is very similar to that of making wooden items, it is even presumed that the same craftsmen processes both sorts of raw material. The same tools and procedures are used such as: cutting, sawing, filing, carving and polishing. The difference between these two sorts of raw material is that bone is treated in a special way before processing in order to improve its features, which required a special technology. Bone was prepared so that it was separated from flesh and then it simmered in water. The purpose of simmering was to extract bone marrow and grease. Before processing bones were put in water and would be cooked again to soften. Other procedure was steam treatment in special stoves at 120°C. As a result of cooking the bone was elastic, which made cutting and shaping of the bone easier as well as the yellowish colour of the bone that could be bleached. After having prepared the bone in this way the items were made according to moulds that were either drawn or made of clay or wax. The bone was then cut with either a knife or a saw while joints were disposed of. The next step was cutting smaller pieces out of which half-finished products were made in order to finish them as items used in everyday life. Half-finished products were finished by filing and polished by abrasion. Written sources offer few data on bone items processing in workshops in which cutters, turners and carvers worked (eborarii processing ebony). Some handicrafts-men specialized in processing and made only one sort of items e.g. fabri pectinarii (comb-makers) and tesserarii (tesserae and tokens). Handicrafts-men in provinces made items by hand upon the copies of items from great workshops so that items all differ, they are all unique items. The quality of handmade items depended not only on the skill of the handicrafts- man but also on the quality of the model. Carving workshops used turning-lathe, which enabled mass production. Machines in the workshops enables making of copies of an item but created also a lot of similar items. In large series from cheaper raw materials they made copies of expensive and luxurious items, which lowered their price and made them generally available. In this way bone as the cheapest raw material made fashion accessible to the public. Human aspiration for beaty has always dictated the trends. In ancient times men and especially women paid great attention to hygiene in order to improve the looks. Close attention was given to hairdo wcoma) not only among women but men as well. Women would fasten their braids and buns with metal or bone hairpins. More decorative hairpins were decoration in hair fastening at the same time ribbons, nets, coronets and hair jewellery. They were popular in Roman times when besides shaping, fastening and decorating they served as cosmetics (putting on a parfume and make-up). The purpose of hairpins and sewing needle has not changed for centuries. Various ancient authors used various notions for a hairpin: acus crinalis, acus crinale, acus comatoria, acus discerniculum or acus discriminalis. It was only that when adjectives were added to the noun acus that their purpose and function became clear. Simpler hairpins without decoration served for curling, straigthening and parting hair (discernere) and for that reason they were called acus discerniculum and acus discriminalis. Hairpins with a decorative head were used to fasten and decorate the hairdo and were referred to as acus crinale or acus comatoria. There was also a bigger hairpin calamistrum that was heated and was then used for hair curling. Decoration of hair with more complicated hairdo was regarded art. Hairpins typology is determined according to their most characteristic part-the head. The main division is into hairpins with a simple not-decorated head and hairpins with a decorated head. Most authors dealing with bone hairpins make two basic groups (and then group them according to types) or types. This paper has not taken into consideration any of these in their entirety but refers to the typology by S. Petković that deals with hairpins from Moesia Superior and less to the typology established by V. Šaranović-Svetek for sites in Syrmia. These two typologies have been chosen for the vicinity of the site that processed finds originated from (Pannonia Secunda and Moesia Superior). The paper conveys 12 types of hairpins from the area of Mursa with parallels throughout Pannonia and Mesia. Type 1 (catalogue nr. 1-4) comprises hairpins with the head in form of more or less regular cylinder while the body is spindle-shaped. It appears all along the Empire period (1st-5th centuries) so that some authors classify it to the chronologically insensitive type. Type 2 (catalogue nr. 5-20) comprises hairpins with an oval shaped head while the body is spindle-shaped. This type dates back to the 1st to 5th centuries. This type is considered to comprise the subtype of hairpins with a pointed oval head, Type 2a shape (catalogue nr. 16-20). Type 3 (catalogue nr. 21) comprises hairpins with a head that is a combination of the two previous types, i.e. cylinder and oval, while the body of the hairpin is spindleshaped. This type dates back to the time from the 1st to 5th centuries. Type 4 (catalogue nr. 22-40) comprises hairpins with a flattened head the body of which slightly narrowed from the head to the top. These hairpins served for parting and curling of locks (acus discerniculum) but also for colouring eyebrows, eyelashes and eyelids. These hairpins date back to the 2nd to 3rd centuries. Type 5 (catalogue nr. 41-65) comprise hairpins with a conical head the body of which slightly narrowing from the head to the top. This type of hairpins just like the previous one was used for hair parting (acus discerniculum) and for colouring eyelashes, eyebrows and eyelids. These hairpins date back to the 2nd to 3rd centuries, too. Type 6 (catalogue nr. 66-67) comprises hairpins in form of rimmed cone the body of which slightly narrowed from the head to the top. Just like the previous two types these hairpins served for parting (acus discerniculum) but also for colouring eyebrows, eyelashes and eyelids. This type of hairpins dates back to the 2nd to 3rd centuries. Type 7 (catalogue nr. 68-88) comprises hairpins with spherical head and spindel-shaped body. In this paper 20 hairpins are subdivided into three subtypes: Type 7a (catalogue nr. 68-74) - hairpins with a bigger spherical head; Type 7b (75-84) – hairpins with a smaller spherical head; Type 7c (85-88) – hairpins with a spherical pointed head. The hairpins date back to the 3rd to 4th centuries and the Type 7b possibly to the 2nd century. Type 8 (catalogue nr. 89) comprises hairpins with a multipart head that can include various geometrical shapes (sphere, halph-sphere, cylinder, cube) that are separated by flutes and ring-shaped plastic highlights. These hairpins were made on turning lathe and were decorated by flutings. The type dates back to the 2nd to 4th centuries. Type 9 (catalogue nr. 90-91) comprises hairpins with a cone-shaped head separated by fluting or ring-shaped plastic highlights from the body of the hairpin. The cones are of various shapes (from round to conical) and can be decorated by carved spirals and nets or remain undecorated. They date back to the Severian period, the end of the 2nd and the first half of the 3rd centuries and possibly to the 5th century. Tape 10 (catalogue nr. 92-93) comprises hairpins with a bulb-shaped head. M. T. Biro considers the bulb-shaped head hairpins to be formed as bulb-shaped fibulae (typical for the 4th century). This hairpin type appears rarely since it was produced in small quantites just like the ones with a conical-shaped head (our type 12). Type 11 (catalogue nr. 94-97) comprises hairpins with a polyhedron-shaped head. This type dates back to the second half of the 3rd until the 4th century but poorer samples are considered to date back to the 5th century. Tape 12 (98-99) comprises conical-shaped head hairpins that is separated from the body by fluting and plastic ring-shaped highlights. These hairpins served to fasten hair in a bun at the